Believe us.
We were wondering the same thing not so long ago.
It's confusing when you first look into it, to the say the least.
"Do I just buy The Backpack and stick it in the corner until I need it?"
You know the backpack we're talking about it.
"Do I need a portfolio of multiple currencies, passports, and several residences across the globe?"
"Am I suppose to start growing all my own food, raise chickens, and start milking goats?"
To top it off, I'm sure you've run into a plethora of acronyms and seemingly odd phrases.
WTSHTF - When the Shit Hits the Fan
TEOTWAWKI - The End of the World as we Know it
WROL - Without Rule of Law
BOB - Bug Out Bag
Let's start by making something abundantly clear here.
Rome didn't vanish in a single evening.
It happened slowly, overtime.
If you're worried that you're going to wake up in a Mad Max-esque scenario, surrounded by cannibals, radioactive mutants, and zombies... relax.
You won't.
Moreover, no nation in the world desires to find themselves in the above scenario, so the use of nuclear weapons or something similar is unlikely.
Don't get us wrong here, that doesn't mean something like that is impossible.
Just unlikely.
And if some sort of catastrophic nuclear warfare is on the horizon, I'm sure we'll have at least some kind of premonition beforehand as tensions heat up across the globe.
We'll be well aware of the looming, 'Red Scare,' for example.
In the same way, listening to fear-mongering regarding the 'fall' of the west can be down right depressing, and we suggest you steer clear of it.
The last thing you want to do is paralyze yourself with fear, thinking, "Well, if it's all gonna end, what's the point anyway?"
For all you know, you could still have another fifty years on this planet living in your same part of town.
So what's your first move to get the prepping-ball rolling?
Start slowly.
Take it week by week, and tackle each, 'prep goal,' one-by-one.
Don't attempt to try and do everything all at once--unless your finances and personal life allow it, of course.
Again, remember, you have time.
This does not mean, however, to waste time.
You want to get started immediately so you're ready for whatever may come your way, but, one more time here, remember: Rome did not collapse in a single night.
We'll cover each of these topics below in-depth at their own time, but for now, here's what we suggest you do:
NOTE: For all the resources listed below, DO NOT purchase kindle books or use any resources saved onto your computer. In the chance of an emergency that shutdowns our electrical grid, you WILL NEED paperback references, books, and guides. Purchase the physical resource/book or print whatever it is you that you need online.
To recap, you have time, but don't dilly dally!
Prepping can appear to be a downright confusing and often scary subject--if you're fixating on the doom-and-gloom aspect of it all, that is.
Focus on the positive, take your time, yet be vigilant.
Let's review what to do at a glance:
Before I leave you, it's worth noting that there are a few step-by-step 'getting started with prepping' books and plans out there on the web, so if that is something that interests you, check those out too.
Until next time friends.
Your Pal,
Miles Grant
P.S.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure or prepping for potential disasters, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you need to complete your kit or stow away for the future.
--
Sources
The Ultimate Suburban Survivalist Guide: The Smartest Money Moves to Prepare for Any Crisis by Sean Brodrick
]]>Good news!
Not only is hiking one of the most fun activities you can do on your days off - it’s also insanely good for your health!
Hiking is a world class cardio workout.
And, like any cardio workout, hiking protects the body from numerous life threatening illnesses.
Heart Disease: According to the CDC, heart disease is the number one killer of both men and women in the U.S.
Heart disease claims an American life every 36 seconds - or over 650,000 American lives per year.
Heart disease is no joke - make the choices to live a healthy lifestyle (while having fun too!) to lower your risk.
Blood pressure: High blood pressure is running rampant in the U.S., with nearly one in three Americans having a hypertension diagnosis, or in layman's terms, high blood pressure.
Hypertension can also lead to a heart attack, stroke, and other health complications - all while going undetected.
Regular physical activity, such as hiking, can lower your blood pressure by 10 points or more.
Bone Density: As people age or become increasingly sedentary, our body’s rate of calcium loss tends to accelerate, resulting in one's bones becoming increasingly susceptible to breaking.
Because hiking is a weight bearing exercise, it can help reverse this trend by strengthening your bones and boosting bone density when done regularly.
Strengthen your legs, core, and balance: Because of the uneven terrain, occasional (or frequent) uphill and downhill angles, and the few extra pounds you may be carrying in a day pack - hiking activates more muscles throughout your body than your typical walk.
Strong legs, core, and balance translate to so many other things - regular life will become easier.
And if you’re a calorie counter like me - check this out:
Hiking burns about 200 calories per mile (on the low end!).
Which is about 2x more than walking and 1.5x more than running the same distance.
Hit the hills to turn calorie burning into calorie scorching.
According to President of the American Hiking Society, Gregory A. Miller (PhD), noted that a 5% - 10% incline can burn an additional 30% - 40% calories.
Not only that, but you burn an additional 1% per extra pound of weight that you carry (i.e. if you carry a 15-pound day pack, you’ll burn an additional ~15% calories!)
Yes, oh yes indeed.
Research has shown that hiking can help combat the effects of anxiety, stress, and boost your mood.
Miller reminds us, "Being in nature is ingrained in our DNA, and we sometimes forget that."
Maybe it's the beautiful views, maybe it’s the time spent with friends, or maybe it’s the satisfaction of pushing your body on a challenging hike.
Or maybe, even after all of that, there really is something deeper at play, deep in our bones and DNA, that makes hiking the perfect type of exercise.
Thanks, and happy hiking!
Erian Gutierrez
Follow me on instagram here.
P.S.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure or prepping for potential disasters, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you need to complete your kit or stow away for the future.
--
Sources
Heart Disease Facts by CDC.gov
Hiking for Health by TrailKeeper.org
Doctors Tell Us How Hiking Can Change Our Brains by Marilyn Rogers
]]>When you show up to a first date, the classroom, or the office Monday morning - you’re expected to look and smell clean.
Cleanliness is a common courtesy and sign of respect to both yourself and those around you.
Yet, the wilderness is a different story.
If we hike many miles through the mountains, naturally, we’re going to smell.
So, of course, expectations are different--not different entirely--but different.
When you can’t find a lake, river, or another body of water to clean up while enjoying the outdoors, below, we have some alternative ways for you stay clean while on the move.
The 'must-haves' of keeping yourself hygienic.
Baby wipes are the best multi-use hygienic tool you can bring on any hike.
Take a baby wipe shower and rub off that dried sweat, salt, and dirt that are bound to be caked on your body after a hike.
Groin, armpits, and the face are a must to clean - everything else is optional.
For health reasons, hand-washing is equally, if not more important, than a baby wipe shower.
A small bottle of hand sanitizer is light, cheap, and ridiculously convenient when out on the trail.
Keep in mind - if your hands are greasy, bloody, or are otherwise visibly dirty, give them a rinse first prior to applying the hand sanitizer for maximum effectiveness.
All of these make fine light rags to clean, scrub, or dry surfaces - or even your body.
If you’re serious about backpacking, regular full size towels are far too bulky and heavy.
Microfiber cloths handle the post lake swim, spilled camp chili, and everything else the trail throws your way at a fraction of the size.
Our forgiveness for stink is a little more generous on the trail - but brushing your teeth is something you shouldn't have to sacrifice.
A toothbrush and toothpaste are both packable, lightweight, and keep your mouth feeling good.
Don't forget them!
Love those gallon size Ziploc bags for dirty socks, used toilet paper/wet wipes, or anything else that is dirty or smelly.
They'll be your best friend out on the trail and you'll be pleased to have them on hand in order to keep your dirty and used items separate from your clean belongings.
Moreover, you can have your used supplies easily stored away until you have a chance to dispose of them properly and abide to pack in and pack out rules.
Clean (or at least fresh) socks are a must-bring, as wearing the same socks for too long creates a closed, hot, and humid environment for your feet.
If your feet sit around in this type of environment for too long you can end up with nasty infections such as athlete's foot or toenail fungus.
Implement this, 'best-practice,' and change your socks halfway through the day, and, likewise, be sure to give your feet some fresh air at the end of your journey to recuperate.
I’ve found that rinsing off in a body of water or wiping myself with wet wipes is good enough for me (in regards to smell and feel).
If you’re looking to get a deeper cleaning or to wash clothes, you may need soap of some sort.
Choose the biodegradable option.
Sadly, they still cause a bit of pollution, but are a far superior choice to non-biodegradable options.
This one is probably an essential, but if you already have baby wipes, toilet paper becomes a 'nice-to-have.'
Whatever your personal preference, have at least one person in the group bring some just in case.
You never know when it may come in handy.
As with Toilet Paper, if you already have wash cloths or rags of some kind, these lose their 'essential' status and move down to the 'nice-to-haves' tier.
Again, make sure you are abiding by pack in pack out principles if you choose to bring items like this..
If you’re unfamiliar with the term, a trowel is a compact and lightweight shovel backpackers use to dig holes when they go number two.
However, while burying your human waste IS essential, you can easily create the same hole with a stick, rock, or other random utensil.
I like trowels and take one on every trip myself, but I also know a lot of people who get by perfectly fine without one.
In the same way, if you'd like to take something with a bit more functionality, I'd recommend taking a look at our Tactical Multi-Tool Survival Shovel.
Either way, ensure that you’re burying your waste and toilet paper at least six inches deep and 100 M (a football field) away from any body of water.
Unfortunately, these products do not mesh well with the environment, and should be avoided.
If you want to bring shampoo or soap at all, do yourself a favor and spend the extra dollar for the biodegradable versions.
Even then, you'll probably be better off without the added pack weight.
Your gut will tell you to bring in order to cover up any stenches - but the truth is, the scent of deodorant often attracts critters, bugs (including mosquitos!), and worst case; bears.
Leave it at home.
Let the hairs grow out for a day or two, nobody minds.
Let us know in the comments if you think we put something on the wrong list or missed something completely.
However you choose to stay clean, and no matter what you bring, make sure you abide by pack-in-pack-out principles to keep the great outdoors... well... great!
Thanks, and happy hiking!
Erian Gutierrez
P.S.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure or prepping for potential disasters, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you need to complete your kit or stow away for the future.
]]>How fit are you, really?
If you had to run out of your house in a hurry and travel on foot with a small pack, kids, and your dog in tow, how far would you be able to get?
One Mile?
Ten?
Just up the block?
In like manner, what if someone breaks into your house and you end up in a wrestling match, fighting for your life?
Or, a loved one gets stuck under a tree branch or piece of debris, and you have to lift it off of them to save their life--could you do it?
Because of the nature of our current crisis, we're fortunate that our 'fitness levels' have yet to be tested.
But our immune systems and finances?
That's a different story--and something we'll discuss in later posts this week.
It is worth noting that there is a very strong relationship between the immune system and physical fitness, so that is something that should be taken into account.
Enough theorizing and pondering hypothetical scenarios.
Let's start taking some action.
What's the first step to getting a realistic assessment of your health?
If you haven't had one in a while, see your doctor for a checkup.
If this is difficult to do given our current circumstances, schedule one as soon as your general practitioner is available.
While you're there, find out your baselines for weight, blood pressure, blood oxygen level, cholesterol, and other basic health markers.
If you have to wait a bit to get your foot in the door, let's be honest, your own intuition and a full-length mirror are all you really need at the end of the day.
If you run out of breath walking up the stairs, a fat gut stares back at your reflection, and lifting up a box puts you out of commission for the day, let's face it, you're out of shape.
An intuitive assessment like this obviously isn't a true replacement for a serious checkup, however, it can suffice in the meantime.
Remember, a real checkup from a real doctor is not optional.
Sure, you may not need a doctor to tell you that you're fat or that your diet could be better, but you will need one to tell you if you have a serious health condition lurking under the skin.
So making a mental note of where you're at on your own is okay, however, you must still schedule a full-on physical as soon as your schedule allows for one.
Our next stop...
This topic deserves its own post, as we believe many preppers tend to overlook physical fitness, and, for that matter, most people.
Furthermore, it isn't uncommon for someone to hate exercise and always associate the thought of it with a negative connotation.
We'll delve into more of that later this month.
For now, we're going to focus on why right now is the perfect opportunity to develop the exercise habit.
If you already have an exercise routine or haven't exercised since P.E. class in high school, there is no better time to start or amend your program than during lockdown and quarantine.
With the gyms closed, our monotonous routines of 'work-gym-home-sleep-repeat' have been disrupted.
Many people are now finding themselves stuck at home all day--no commute, possibly working from home, and a surplus of time on their hands.
What's particularly interesting is that your average 9-5 worker will usually never get this much time to themselves to sit and think, meaning that this is an incredible moment in time to get ahead in any area of your life that needs working on.
This is why home gym equipment, bread makers, DIY, hobby items, arts and crafts, and so on, have flown off the shelves like hotcakes.
How can we apply this surplus of 'thinking time' to improving our physical fitness and creating or strengthening the 'exercise habit'?
See if there is anything missing in your fitness regimen.
Men: are you neglecting cardiovascular work?
Women: are you forgoing some form of strength training?
Everyone: are you stretching after your workouts?
Are you rehabbing any nagging injuries you have, a tweaked wrist or lower backache, or are you just letting it fester?
If your program is lacking one or several of these elements, remember that it is perfectly okay to have particular fitness goals--e.g. desire to be a bodybuilder--yet, it is imperative that you continue to maintain other areas of your 'fitness life' while you strive to reach them.
Even if you want to spend the majority of your workout time dedicated to weights, it's important that you spend at least some time to cardiovascular training.
Find a program/training style that interests you and get started.
We'll have more detailed information on this later (hey, you have to prep your health too!), but for now, we'd recommend heading over to Reddit and browsing the various fitness-related subreddits.
There are tons of pre-made workout programs and templates for you to follow, irrespective of your experience level.
Suggested Links:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Fitness/
https://www.reddit.com/r/Fitness/wiki/related_subreddits
Choosing the right routine if you feel overwhelmed or don't know where to start
https://thefitness.wiki/resources/
Start slow on your exercise routine if you're adopting one for the first time.
The soreness your muscles produce may surprise you, especially if they've been sedentary for a while.
Walk or bike ten minutes a day initially, gradually increasing the pace and duration as you get used to it.
Similarly, if you're introducing new elements to your program, do it slowly.
It's easy to give up on adding cardio if you immediately go from zero to running one to two miles every other day.
On the other hand, it's easy to stick with it if you start walking for a few minutes, then add a bit more time, then switch to jogging, and so on and so forth over the course of several weeks.
Aside from easing yourself into it, it is also very important that you develop the ability to listen to your body.
If you feel like you should skip a workout, you probably should.
If a particular exercise doesn't feel right, stop doing it.
These often subtle messages your body sends you should never be ignored.
For all you know, it could prevent you from spending nine months in a sling, unable to move or enjoy any type of exercise at all.
Lastly, warm-up prior to your workouts and make time to stretch afterward.
These mundane pre and post-workout habits you may remember from high school were done with good reason: they protect you from injury!
This may appear to be an odd bit of advice, but if you choose to walk or jog outside, stay in known, safe areas, and always be aware of your surroundings.
Likewise, it may behoove you to let someone know where you're going and when they should expect you to return.
While 'getting jumped' is always a risk of normal daily life, it's possible you could also become severely dehydrated and pass out, get injured, or something similar.
This is doubly so if you're cycling or skateboarding.
We can think of two different people we know personally who survived cycling injuries only because of the presence of another person/someone else knew where they were.
We'd like to conclude this thought with, "Better safe than sorry," however, this is a prepper site, after all, so we imagine you're already thinking that.
It isn't often that we experience a total, global, societal standstill like this, and it isn't one we should put to waste.
While it's fun to catch up on those TV shows and videogames you've been wanting to get around to, it is in your best interest to attend to your health first.
Without your health, after all, you have nothing.
That may sound cheesy, but everyone who has had a serious health issue knows how true that statement is.
In the coming weeks, we're going to continue discussing how to 'prep' with regards to your health and fitness, alongside a few other key areas: personal finance, home security, and food storage and cooking.
If you'd like us to touch on anything in particular, please, let us know!
In the same way, if you have any questions, comments, or anything you'd like to add, we'd love to hear from you in the comments below or on social media.
Stay tuned for more.
Your pal,
Miles Grant
P.S.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure or prepping for potential disasters, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you need to complete your kit or stow away for the future.
--
Sources
The Prepper's Pocket Guide by Bernie Carr
Spark: The Revolutionary New Science of Exercise and the Brain by John J. Ratey MD
]]>Dear friends,
Our response regarding COVID-19 is as follows:
Survival Cat continues to operate and fulfill orders for our customers as per usual.
At this time, please allow additional time for your orders to arrive and for inquiries to be answered.
We appreciate your support and patience.
Stay safe!
Regards,
Survival Cat Team
]]>The world has seemingly gone into panic mode over the past few days.
We here at Survival Cat suspected the Coronavirus would be about as deadly as bird flu or mad cow disease (who remembers those?) and disappear into oblivion after a bit of news coverage.
Unfortunately, that hasn't been the case.
In fact, it seems like everyone we know is currently working from home, avoiding any public gatherings, and linking article after article on social media and into group messages we're apart of.
Heck, even Saturday Night Live is currently offline!
So how bad will it get?
We can't answer that question, at least not yet, but what we can tell you is how to avoid getting it.
We're going to discuss this with overlap with the regular seasonal Flu, as there is a fair amount of crossover in both transmission and avoidance.
The primary differentiation is that--as of now--there is no available vaccination for the Coronavirus and there is also the possibility of the disease becoming airborne.
If you're interested in understanding the specific differences, check out this article by John Hopkins Medicine.
Reading it isn't necessary, to implement the advice below.
Moreover, much of what you read here is really only necessary if its particularly bad where you live, like in Italy.
Point number one coincides with what you probably by now already associate the word, "Coronavirus," with...
Influenza is a virus that enters the body through contact with mucous membranes, so you must protect your nose and mouth at all costs.
If you cannot get a mask, try putting a bandanna tied securely over your nose and mouth.
Furthermore, do not touch or rub your eyes, nose, or mouth.
Each member of your household should have an assigned towel, washcloth, dishcloth, and pillow.
Label towels with masking tape to avoid mix-ups and wash all towels with bleach.
If possible (more so if someone is already sick), all household members should also sleep in separate bedrooms.
Sneezing and coughing into your elbow will prevent germs from reaching your hands and spreading through contact.
Recommend that others in your household or party follow suit.
There is a specific way to wash your hands in a bathroom while also leaving the bathroom unscathed.
Unscathed in germs, that is.
See below:
When washing hands in a public restroom, first pull the lever on the towel dispenser to lower a towel, then wash your hands.
Rip off the dispensed towel, then use it to pull the dispenser lever again and to turn off the water faucet.
Discard the first towel and then tear off the second towel and use it to dry your hands and then open the bathroom door.
While you have the door propped open with your foot, go ahead and discard the towel.
Viola!
Disinfect light switches, doorknobs, computer keyboards and mice, telephone receivers, refrigerator door handles, sink faucets, and the flush handle on the toilet.
Do not use public telephones.
Do not let used tissues pile up in wastebaskets; they may carry the flu.
Wear disposable rubber gloves or heavy-duty work gloves when emptying trash.
Wash the gloves frequently, or throw them out after each use if you opted for the disposable kind.
Do not get on an airplane and avoid entering buildings that use recirculation systems designed to reduce fuel consumption (In the United States, many such buildings were erected during the 1970s energy crisis).
In other words, postpone any overseas travel plans you have and stay out of large public buildings if you can, particularly of the skyscraper variety.
Hospitals, prisons, daycare centers, college dorms, movie theaters, checkout lines, and other places where large numbers of people cohabitate or group closely together should be avoided during the pandemic.
It's time to bust open a copy of convict conditioning to stay in shape, Netflix or another streaming service for entertainment, and usage of Skype or Zoom for work.
Much of the above might sound extreme.
Do you really want to be that guy or gal who walks around everywhere with a mask?
As we said, do what you think is best with respect to the current situation in your place of living, and leave the rest.
Regularly washing your hands is always a good habit regardless of flu pandemics though.
But we're sure you already knew that--not to sound smart.
As always, please let us know if you have any comments, questions, or thoughts you'd like to share.
We WANT to hear from you, especially amidst all this chaos and hysteria!
Cheers,
-Miles @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure or prepping for potential disasters, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you need to complete your kit or stow for the future.
--
Some of the information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Ultimate Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
For prepping and first aid, our favorites are Just in Case: How to be Self-Sufficient when the Unexpected Happens and The Survival Medicine Handbook: THE essential guide for when medical help is NOT on the way.
Medical Disclaimer: We are not doctors. Please consult a medical professional if you are seeking medical advice.
When the SHTF, everyone, for the most part, has the same top three priorities: finding and securing shelter/ensuring your family's safety, obtaining food, and most of all, acquiring water.
A fourth priority, however, is attaining and procuring any medicines required by you or your family members.
Unfortunately, this is sometimes forgotten about until its too late.
We're not necessarily talking about having your bottle of ibuprofen or Tylenol on hand either--although those will come in handy, no doubt!
We're talking about prescriptions.
Odds are better than average that you or someone you know is currently taking prescription medications.
For context, in the U.S., 51% of insured children and adults are currently taking a prescription medication.
That's quite a few.
This isn't a bad thing per se, as medicine was created to help us in the first place, yet, it can be very annoying having to rely on a third party for your wellbeing.
If civilization breaks down--coming from the perspective of a western country--you'll most likely only have a 30 day supply or so on hand.
Maybe 90 days if your provider allows it.
As of now, western governments don't allow you to stockpile large quantities of any prescribed drugs that you're regularly taking.
There is some logic to this caution, however, in essence, our governments are telling us that they do not trust us with our own health and that they, 'know best.'
Not only does the average person have to put up with 'just-in-time' inventory practices, that is, only having a 30 day supply or so of their prescription available at a time, but this practice is also unfortunately implemented at nursing homes.
If supply transportation is disrupted or some type of disaster wipes out a pharmacy, it won't take long for people to start dying.
It would behoove you to ensure that you and your family require the least amount of prescription medication possible.
Obviously, this is easier said than done, however, if you are in a position where you can possibly wean off your medication or substitute it for something else, it may be worth your while.
While this isn't going to be a possibility for every individual or health condition, if it is or appears that it can be done, at least do some investigation.
It may save your life.
On the flip side, if you are not in a position to forgo your medication and likewise cannot get more than a 30 day supply, we'd advise that you research if there are any possible ways to build up an emergency nest egg.
So aside from minimizing your prescription medication usage, what else can you do to protect your health?
Let's find out...
I hate to say it, but if you're a pre-diabetic, extremely overweight, and very lacking in the athletic department, your odds of survival are grim in a bug-out scenario.
Whatever your current fitness starting point, you must get or improve your physical fitness now!
As of today--March 5th, 2020--we've experienced a plethora of coverage on the Coronavirus.
While odds are it won't turn into a global pandemic that eliminates the majority of the human race, it has brought some good with it: awareness.
Many, many people have suddenly become interested in prepping.
Costco is sold out of toilet paper, Amazon is sold out of hand sanitizer, and many grocery stores are sold out of canned foods.
But, ironically, gym memberships haven't sold out.
In this day and age, it'll probably be unlikely that you'll starve to death amidst some sort of crisis like this.
Don't get us wrong here, it could happen, and stockpiling food should always be a top priority.
You should not neglect this task.
Heck, it would be even MORE likely if the 'crisis' you find yourself in is a plane crash in the desert or getting marooned on an island--food definitely would be scarce--although prepping would not be an option in this scenario.
In the case of something like the Coronavirus, however, it appears that a weak immune system and poor physical health may be what ultimately 'does you in.'
And the best time to get in shape and build-up strong health?
Before the crisis or epidemic starts.
So if you're overweight or out of shape, this is something you can no longer ignore.
Obesity puts you at risk of a myriad of cancers and health problems, a list too long to bother writing, and likewise will slow you down when walking long distances.
Finally, if you're being chased by an angry mob, who gets caught first?
The fat guy, that's who.
Note: If you're not sure where to start fitness-wise, here is an easy program you can do at home.
-50 Push-ups every other day--as many sets as it takes to reach 50
-50 Full Squats every other day--as many sets as it takes to reach 50
-10 Pull-ups or Assisted Pull-ups every other day--as many sets as it takes to reach 10
This goes hand in hand with getting in shape.
If you're just starting to work out or already work out regularly, changing your diet is something that immediately comes to mind.
In the same way, if you're busting your ass in the gym, the last thing you want to do is put all your hard work to waste by binging on crappy food.
Albeit, cheating on your diet can happen easily when you come home from the gym totally famished.
So we understand if it happens occasionally--that doesn't mean you should do this though.
It's worth noting that, overall, 'healthy eating' is a fickle matter as everyone has their own philosophy as to what constitutes a healthy diet.
We may delve into this further at a later time, but for now, we'll leave it at 'eat healthily' and then do whatever that means to you.
If you're struggling with weight loss or would just like a simple framework to stick with, we've had great success with the paleo diet and if you're looking for a suggestion, that's ours.
If your new fitness endeavors have made you suddenly realize you want to get as thin as Christian Bale in The Machinist, don't.
Although 'getting too skinny' may appear to be a good problem to have, it really isn't.
For you 'hard gainer' types that are into bodybuilding, you know exactly what we're talking about.
In other words, if you're dieting, don't let yourself get freakishly thin if your body type leans that way. On the flip side, if you already have trouble putting on weight or you're already very skinny, eat a caloric surplus and consider also implementing a bulking bodybuilding routine.
If you have no idea where to start, Mike Matthews has some excellent weight training guides.
So why is it good to have some fat on your body?
A pound of body fat is roughly 3,500 calories.
Provided you're drinking water and taking vitamins, you can be just fine not eating for several days if you have some type of fat storage to delve into.
To sum up, unless you're really starving yourself, getting too skinny shouldn't be much of a concern for the average person--unless you're already having trouble putting on weight to begin with.
Also, if you simply cut carbs but continue to eat until you're full, your body will most likely reach a healthy and reasonable body fat percentage on its own accord.
Again, our two cents!
If you have a different style of 'dieting' or 'healthy eating' that you prefer, then do that.
Smoking is an activity that will offer nothing but benefits when you give it up.
Saved money, a greater lung capacity, and fewer interruptions to your day!
That saved cash will probably result in several thousand dollars. Smoking costs more than you think.
Aside from lung cancer, smoking is also linked to arterial wall damage, high blood pressure, asthma, and a myriad of other illnesses.
Protect your health and give it up.
We have it on good authority that if you're struggling to give up smoking on your own, the prescription medication Chantix may help you immensely.
We recommend that you research it if you're interested.
Besides, on a closing note, do you really want to be thinking about how to get your next nicotine fix if you're bugging out during a disaster?
Not to sound overly morbid or condescending, but don't be that guy or gal that finds out he or she has terminal stage four cancer that could have easily been prevented if they stuck with a regular doctor's check-up.
Yes, we had a friend that this happened to, and yes, it's very sad.
Not only did they lose their life, but it would have been totally preventable had they taken the necessary precautions.
In addition, you'll find out what state of overall health your body is in and what the baseline targets you should aim for are.
Paramedics won't always be on time.
It's an unfortunate fact of reality we must face.
They can even get the address wrong or not even answer the dang phone!
When that happens, it is up to you.
A CPR (Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation) class will teach you everything you need to know about this critical, life-saving skill.
In such a class, you'll learn the infamous ABC method, which we will briefly illustrate below:
A = Airway: Check that the person is breathing and that their airway is not obstructed in any way.
B = Breathing: If the person is breathing, great! If not, prepare to begin artificial respiration or rescue breathing.
C = Circulation: Do they have a pulse? If not, begin performing CPR.
The Red Cross offers inexpensive CPR and First-Aid courses that can teach you the needed techniques to perform this procedure when needed.
Whatever you choose to do, ensure that you're learning from a trained professional.
You need more than just a few YouTube videos to make sure your execution is correctly performed.
If you have any furry, four-legged friends living in your home, this is for you!
Fortunately, obtaining and stocking up on medicine for your pet is usually quite painless and easy to do.
Moreover, if push comes to shove, you can use your pet's medication for yourself.
We're not endorsing this, but we'd be amiss if we didn't mention it.
So stock up!
As we discussed above, now is the time to decide if you can and should wean off of any prescription medications.
It will be convenient to no longer have to rely on a government-regulated pharmacy, however, as we said before, this may not be an option depending on your health condition.
If that's the case, continue to investigate how you could secure an emergency stockpile of your needed medications.
Finally, depending on your condition and what you're prescribed, amino acid therapy appears to be a potentially promising alternative to some prescription medications.
Two books that discuss the subject in-depth are The Mood Cure by Julia Ross and The Depression Cure by Stephen Ilardi.
If you're already in shape and have all these bases generally covered, we salute you.
If not, now is the time to get started, especially with the 'forewarning' of the Coronavirus.
While the Cornovirus will most likely not turn into something absolutely crazy, it is a good reminder that the best time to protect your health is before the crisis starts.
If you have any comments or health tips you'd like to share, we'd love to hear from you below!
Stay tuned for more.
Cheers,
Miles
--
Some of the information presented to you here today is from Sean Brodrick's book, The Ultimate Suburban Survivalist Guide: The Smartest Money Moves to Prepare for Any Crisis.
For a full list of recommended resources, you can check out this page.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure or prepping for your future security, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything that will suit your current needs.
]]>There may come a time in your life where you'll suddenly find yourself having to reenact the parkour moves of Uncharted's Nathan Drake in order to save your life.
Jumping from a bridge or cliff into the water below in order to escape rabid dogs or evil henchmen will probably be one of those times.
On a serious note though, this is something you should never do unless you absolutely must.
While high jumps can be performed safely for recreation, in a crisis scenario you most likely will not have been able--or had the time--to gauge the depth of the water, see if there are jagged rocks nearby, and so on and so forth.
In other words, you probably won't be jumping from a safe place where people regularly go diving.
To begin, when attempting a high fall in an emergency (let's say over twenty feet or so) into a body of water, you will not know much about your surroundings-- specifically the depth of the water--as previously discussed.
This is what makes impromptu jumping particularly dangerous.
If you're jumping from a bridge into a river or other body of water with boat traffic, try to land in the channel--the deepwater area where boats go under the bridge.
This area is generally in the center, away from the shoreline.
Moreover, stay away from any area with pylons that are supporting the bridge.
Debris can collect in these areas and you can end up hitting something when you enter the water.
No need to make your risky move riskier!
Finally, after surfacing from the jump, immediately swim to shore.
1. Jump feet first and "Up and Away" From the Cliff.
2. Keep your body completely vertical.
This is also referred to as a pencil dive, which you've most likely seen many people do.
3. Squeeze your feet together, point your toes, straighten out your back, and lock your elbows in tight.
If your body begins to veer to one side as you fall, use your arms as 'wings' to straighten yourself back into position--provided that you bring your arms back to your sides prior to entering the water!
Your legs may take some damage.
Don't make it your arms too.
Likewise, pointing your toes will allow for a smoother entry into the water, allowing you to glide in rather than 'splash' in.
4. Enter the water feet first, and clench your buttocks together.
If you don't, water may rush in and cause severe internal damage.
Seriously.
Heck, we even saw an episode of 1000 Ways to Die (who remembers that show?) that depicted this happening.
We'll admit, initially we thought it was fake and this couldn't possibly be something that can occur in real life.
Water can really rush up your bum and kill you?
Yes, yes it can.
5. Protect your crotch area by covering it with your hands.
6. Exhale through your nose as soon as your head becomes submerged in the water.
This will prevent water from rushing straight up into your nostrils.
7. Immediately after you hit the water, spread your arms and legs wide and move them back and forth to generate resistance, which will slow your plunge to the bottom.
Always assume the water is not deep enough to keep you from hitting the bottom.
As with all things prepping, prep for the worst.
Following these guidelines, if and when the time comes that you actually have to do this, you should make it out okay.
Plus, at the end of the day, you'll also have a pretty badass story to share with friends and family.
Who can say they've done something akin to an action hero?
Not many.
Good luck out there.
Please let us know if you have any comments, questions, or thoughts you'd like to share.
We WANT to hear from you!
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
--
Some of the information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
We also referenced this article that we read during our research process.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>Everyone wonders if they would be able to hold their own in a fistfight.
Something not everyone thinks about, however, is how they'll feel after a punch.
And if they'll remain standing.
Especially one to the face.
We will discuss actual street fighting and hand-to-hand combat techniques in detail at another time.
For now, we're going to focus on how to get hit.
How to take a punch and remain standing.
1. Tighten your stomach muscles.
A body blow to the gut (solar plexus) can damage organs and kill.
While this is unlikely to happen, most don't realize how much damage a close-up punch can actually do to the body.
Especially one that is totally unexpected.
In fact, Harry Houdini died from an unanticipated blow to the abdomen.
This is serious stuff.
Moreover, this sort of punch is one of the best and easiest ways to knock someone out unconscious.
2. Do not suck in your stomach if you expect that a punch is imminent.
This will actually increase the amount of damage your abdomen and insides will take if you do this.
3. If possible, shift slightly so that the blow hits your side, but do not flinch or move away from the punch.
Try to absorb the blow with your obliques: this is the set of muscles on your side that wrap around your ribs.
Sometimes referred to as "side abs."
See below:
While a blow to this area may crack a rib, it is less likely to do damage to any internal organs.
1. Move toward the blow, not away from it.
Getting punched while moving backward can result in the head taking the punch at full force.
A punch to the face can cause head whipping, where the brain suddenly moves around inside the skull, which may result in severe injury or even death.
2. Tighten your neck muscles and clench your jaw to avoid the upper and lower palettes from scraping inside the mouth.
This also significantly reduces the change of your jaw itself taking any damage.
1. The straight punch--one that comes straight at your face--should be countered by moving toward the blow.
While this may seem entirely counter-intuitive, this will take force away from the blow.
The extended punch will have less distance to travel and likewise work-up additional power.
2. A punch can be absorbed most effectively and with the least injury by the forehead.
Head butts were outlawed from the UFC for a reason.
The forehead is firm and powerful.
Don't get us wrong here, obviously, you'd want to avoid taking a punch to the face altogether, yet, if and when necessary, the forehead is a great "defensive tool" of the face.
Lastly, avoid taking the punch in the nose at all costs.
It is a vulnerable area and can be extremely painful when hit.
It also isn't uncommon for a punch to this region to result in a blood-gushing, broken mess.
While not only unpleasant, this can also reduce your ability to fight effectively--blood pouring all over your face.
3. Attempt to deflect the blow with an arm.
Moving into the punch may result in your attacker widely missing the mark to either side.
4. Hit back with an uppercut or roundhouse! (Again, more on this in a later post!)
Not sure what a roundhouse punch is? Click me to find out (also referred to as a 'Haymaker').
1. Clench your jaw.
A punch to the ear or cheek can cause great pain and may break your jaw.
2. Move-in close to your attacker.
Try to make the punch land harmlessly behind your head.
In other words, move into the 'circle' of their punch so it wraps behind you.
You'll now find yourself in their personal space, which means...
3. Hit back with an uppercut!
Not sure what an uppercut punch is? Click me to find out.
1. Clench your neck and jaw.
An uppercut can cause serious damage, whipping your head back and easily breaking your jaw or nose.
2. Use your arm to absorb some of the impact or deflect the blow to the side--anything to minimize the impact of a straight punch to the jaw.
3. Do not step into this punch.
If possible, move your head to the side, rotating your body slightly if need be.
They may fail to make any contact with your body in the first place when done at the right time.
4. Hit back with a straight punch to the face or with an uppercut of your own.
Hands-on skills (literally) like hand-to-hand combat will take more than reading an article to learn and implement.
We're not trying to sound like a smart ass by saying that, as we're sure you realize this.
Albeit, it is helpful to understand what to expect even if you don't have time to play around shadow boxing or get formal training of some kind.
You really never know if you'll end up in a scenario where this knowledge will be helpful.
By the same token, most are surprised by how much information rushes into their conscious mind when an emergency situation presents itself!
The majority of the world has little to no formal training whatsoever in this regard, so simply reading something like this can put you that much farther ahead of everyone else.
This includes the type of people who would jump you in the street.
While we always recommend conflict avoidance, most of these types rely purely on fear and intimidation and will run like hell if facing someone who will actually fight them.
Finally, if you do get the chance or have the time to get proper instruction of some sort, we'd highly recommend you do so.
Please, let us know if you have any comments, questions, or thoughts you'd like to share.
We WANT to hear from you!
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
--
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>First and foremost, if you actually do happen to find yourself in this situation, please, let us know how and why it happened.
That's a story that we cannot miss.
Before we begin, however, we'd be amiss to suggest that if you actually do find yourself in this scenario, run away if you can.
Sword fighting in real life isn't nearly as fun as The Elder Scrolls IV: Oblivion makes it out to be.
Only, and if only, there is truly no way for you to escape, then, by all means, pick up your sword.
Without further ado...
Always keep your sword in the "ready" position--held out in front of you, with both hands, and perpendicular to the ground.
Like so:
With this stance, you can move the sword side to side and up and down easily, blocking and landing blows in all directions with simple movements of the arms.
Furthermore, hold the tip of the sword at a bit of an angle, with the tip pointed slightly toward your opponent.
As an illustration, picture a doorway--you should be able to move your sword in any direction and quickly hit any edge of the doorframe.
1. Step up into the blow, with your arms held against your body.
React quickly and against your instincts, which will tell you to move back and away.
By moving closer, you can cut off a blow's power.
Avoid extending your arms, which would make your own counterblow less powerful.
2. Push or "punch" at the blow instead of simply trying to absorb it with your own sword.
If a blow is aimed at your head, move your sword completely parallel to the ground and above your head.
Block with the center of your sword, not the end.
Always move out toward your opponent, even if you are on the defensive and not currently attacking.
1. Move the sword in steady, quick blows up and down and to the left and right.
Assuming you must disable your attacker, do not try to stab with your sword.
A stabbing motion will put you off balance and will leave your sword far out in front of you, making you vulnerable to a counterblow.
And perhaps leave you with one less arm.
2. Do not raise the sword up behind your head to try a huge, powerful blow--you will end up with a sword in your gut.
3. Hold your position, punch out to defend, and strike quickly.
4. Wait for your attacker to make a mistake to make your finishing move.
Stepping into a blow or deflecting it to the side will put him/her off balance.
Once your opponent is off-balance, you can take advantage of this moment of weakness by landing a disabling blow, remembering not to jab with your sword but to strike up and down or from side to side.
This is all easier said than done, of course.
The idea of swordplay may even espouse more anxiety in some than the thought of shooting guns, and with good reason.
Fighting up close and personal can be terrifying, and the thought of getting maimed or losing a limb isn't too comforting either.
The bottom line: run away.
And only, if you absolutely must, should you fight.
In fact, this goes for all scenarios where combat is a possibility.
Always avoid it if you can.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>While bullfighting may be viewed as a fun pass time in some countries, most of us don't enjoy the prospect of getting chased down by an angry set of bull horns.
What should you do, however, if you do happen to find yourself in the sights of a charging bull?
First things first...
Bulls will generally leave humans alone unless they become angry or bothered.
Unless the bull already has been annoyed, prevention is the best antidote in this case, as it is in many others.
Running away is not likely to help unless you find an open door, a fence to jump over (provided it can't knock it down!), or high ground of some sort that it cannot reach--bulls can easily outrun humans.
If you can reach a safe spot in time though, make a run for it.
You will use this to distract the bull.
Likewise, it does not matter what color the article of clothing is.
Despite the colors bullfighters traditionally use, bulls do not naturally seek out the color red or any other similar colors--they react to and move towards movement above all else, not a specific "appearance."
The bull should head toward the object you've thrown.
As it begins to turn towards the object and divert its focus, go the other way.
Don't move too soon though, otherwise, it may immediately head back toward you!
If you encounter a stampede of bulls or cattle, do not try to distract them like above.
Rather, try to determine where they are headed, and then get out of the way.
If you cannot escape, your only option is to run alongside the stampede to avoid getting trampled.
Bulls are not like horses, and will not avoid you if you lie down--so stay standing keep moving.
A charging bull can be absolutely terrifying and with good reason.
Fortunately, it is not an extremely difficult situation to escape from, especially if you can make use of nearby terrain and obstacles.
If you do encounter one, remember these tactics and you'll make it out in short order.
If you have any questions, comments, or would like to share your own advice, please let us know in the comments below!
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>While we wish every bee was as friendly as Barry B. Benson, this is unfortunately not the case.
In usual Survival Cat fashion, let's get to it...
Staying put and swatting at the bees only makes them angrier, get the hell out of there!
This will help give you cover and ideally confuse the bees/make them lose sight of you.
Do not pinch or pull the stinger out--this may squeeze more venom from the stinger into your body.
Rather, remove the stinger by raking your fingernail across it in a sideways motion.
Do not let stingers remain in the skin, because venom can continue to pump into the body for up to ten minutes or so.
Contrary to popular belief, this isn't always a great move.
This may work, however, if you're able to stay underwater long enough while you swim to a different area before you rise back up to the surface.
The Africanized honeybee is a cousin of the run-of-the-mill domesticated honeybee that has lived in the United States for centuries.
The name, "killer bee," was coined after some magazine reports about several deaths that resulted from Africanized bee stings some years back.
Africanized honeybees are considered "wild;" they are easily angered by animals and people, and likely to become aggressive.
These are the bees you really want to avoid.
This is when the entire colony moves to establish a new hive.
They may move in large masses--called swarms--until they find a suitable spot.
Once the colony is built and the bees begin raising their young, they will protect their hive by stinging.
It is also worth noting that while any colony of bees will defend its hive, Africanized bees do so with gusto.
These bees can kill, and they present a danger even to those who are not allergic to bee stings.
In several isolated instances, people and animals have been stung to death.
Regular honeybees will chase you about fifty yards, whereas Africanized honeybees will pursue you upwards of three times that distance.
Excuse our French, but yes, it would behoove you to run like hell if you encounter these types of bees.
More often than not, deaths from stings occur when people are not able to get away from the bees quickly.
Animal losses have occurred for the same reasons--pets and livestock were tied up or penned when they encountered the bees and could not escape.
One bee can be a fun buzz.
Two bees can be interesting to watch.
More than three can make things... uncomfortable.
To sum up, simply keep your distance, and if you need to get rid of them, phone the bee man!
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>One thing is certain...
This won't be like any wrestling match you had in high school!
Let's get to it...
Of course, this is easier said than done.
This move will force its head and jaws down.
This will usually make it more sedate.
Use any weapon--or anything that can function as a weapon!--available. Use your fists if you must.
Alligators often open their mouths when tapped lightly.
They may drop whatever it is they have taken hold of, and back off.
Yes, hitting the snout is a running trend. Sharks and bears don't like it either.
Once you've released yourself from its jaws following step 4, try to keep the mouth clamped shut so the alligator does not begin shaking and rolling.
In other words, if an alligator gets ahold of your arm, it may begin to roll its body over and over, twisting your arm out of its socket repeatedly.
As your wrestle, focus on keeping its mouth closed!
Alligators have a huge number of pathogens in their mouths.
If you escape unscathed albeit with a few cuts and bruises, you could still end up worse off.
Get treated!
While deaths in the United States from alligator attacks are rare, there are thousands of attacks and hundreds of fatalities from Nile crocodiles in Africa and Indopacific crocodiles in Asia and Australia.
Once again...
When in doubt, punch it in the snout.
Keep that mouth shut, give it hell in the eye and nose regions, then run like the dickens.
If you've done serious damage to its vision or if it feels like you could after wrestling with it, it will not follow you.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>Relax.
This will usually never happen when you go camping.
We even share some statistics down below to give you a solid perspective.
But when it does...
Documented attacks show that an attack by a mother black bear often ends when the person stops fighting.
It's in your best interest to avoid provoking the bear in any way unless absolutely necessary.
Black bears can climb trees quickly, easily, and will subsequently come after you.
Like the above, the odds are that the bear will leave you alone if you stay put.
If you begin to run, the bear will think that you think it is prey.
Similar to fending off a shark, go for the bear's eyes or its snout with anything you have.
The bear will not bother going after you if it believes it may sustain life-altering injuries, like blindness.
There are about 650,000 black bears in North America, and only one person every three years is killed by a bear--although there are hundreds of thousands of encounters.
Most bears in the continental U.S. are black bears, but black bears are not always black in color: sometimes their fur is brown or blonde.
Males are generally larger than females (125 to 500 pounds for males, 90 to 300 pounds for females).
Once more relating it back to shark attacks, the best defense against a bear attack is to avoid one.
Seal up that food.
Leash up that dog.
And when in doubt, punch it in the snout.
Ending seriously, however, if you do happen to see them, leave them alone and get as far away as possible!
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>Shark attacks.
A common "worst fear" amongst many folks.
And who can blame them?
Nothing looks eerier than the emotionless face of a shark approaching you in murky waters.
Moreover, if you end up fighting one, it will feel like you're a two-dimensional creature fighting in a four-dimensional plane.
Not good.
But if it is inevitable, what should you do if one happens to attack you?
If a shark is coming towards you or attacks you, use anything you have in your possession--a camera, probe, harpoon gun, your fists--to hit the shark's eyes or gills, which are the areas most sensitive to pain.
Contrary to popular opinion, the shark's nose is not the area to attack, unless of course, you cannot reach the eyes or gills.
Sharks are predators and will usually only follow through on an attack if they have the advantage, so making the shark unsure of its advantage in any way possible will increase your chance of survival.
Hitting the shark simply tells it that you are not defenseless, and that alone may deter it.
Sharks know that there are plenty of other options in the sea that won't put up a fight.
And the best way to fight off a shark?
Never get attacked by one in the first place.
In the world of shark attacks, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
A shark attack is a potential danger for anyone who frequents marine waters, but it should be kept in perspective.
Bees, wasps, and snakes are responsible for far more fatalities each year.
In the United States, the annual risk of death from lightning is thirty times greater than from a shark attack.
Terrifying and deadly, but very unlikely nonetheless.
Adhere to our suggested precautions and the chance of this already unlikely event will get even closer to zero.
Shark attacks are like a box of chocolates.
You never know what you're going to get.
Okay, not really.
There are only a couple of strategies you need to keep an eye out for:
"Hit and Run" Attacks
By far the most common.
These typically occur in the surf zone, where swimmers and surfers are the targets.
The victim seldom sees its attacker, and the shark does not return after inflicting a single bite or slash wound.
"Bump and Bite" Attacks
Characterized by the shark initially circling and often bumping the victim prior to the actual attack.
These types of attacks usually involve divers or swimmers in deeper waters, but also occur in nearshore shallows in some areas of the world.
"Sneak" Attacks
These are strikes that occur without warning, and may not follow typical shark behavior.
In other words, it may occur somewhere where sharks are not usually found and the shark may do more than just a "hit and run."
With both, "bump and bite," and, "sneak" attacks, repeat attacks are common and multiple sustained bites are the norm.
Injuries incurred during this type of attack are usually quite severe, frequently resulting in death.
Most shark attacks occur in nearshore waters, typically inshore of a sandbar or between sandbars where sharks feed and can become trapped at low tide.
Areas with steep drop-offs are also likely common attack sites: sharks congregate in these areas because their natural prey congregates there.
Remember that big drop off in Finding Nemo right outside their house?
Places like that.
Furthermore, almost any large shark, roughly six feet or longer in total length, is a potential threat to humans.
But three species, in particular, have repeatedly attacked man: the Great White Shark (Carcharodon carcharias), the Tiger Shark (Galeocerdo cuvier), and the bull shark (Carcharhinus leucas).
All are cosmopolitan in distribution, reach large sizes, and consume large prey such as marine mammals, sea turtles, and fish as normal components of their diet.
Avoid!
The best defense against a shark attack is to never yourself facing one.
If you must defend yourself against one, remember, hit the gills and/or the eyes.
No shark wants to risk its neck over dinner when it doesn't have to.
Attacking those will be your ticket home and back to shore.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
--
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]]>What should you do if you're bitten by a poisonous snake?
Because poisonous snakes can be difficult to identify--and because some non-poisonous snakes have markings very similar to venomous ones--the best way to avoid getting bitten is to leave all snakes alone.
Assume that a snake is venomous unless you know for certain that it is not.
But let's say you do get bitten.
Now what?
This will slow the flow of the venom throughout the circulatory system.
You should have a doctor should treat all snakebites unless you are willing to bet your life that the offending snake is nonpoisonous.
Of about eight thousand venomous bites per year in the U.S., nine to fifteen victims are killed.
A bite from any type of poisonous snake should always be considered a medical emergency.
Even bites from nonpoisonous snakes should be treated professionally, as severe allergic reactions can occur.
Some Mojave rattlesnakes carry a neurotoxic venom that can affect the brain or spinal cord, causing paralysis.
So no matter what type of snake bites you, get medical help!
You never know how your body will react or what the markings on the snake actually signify.
The bandage should not cut off blood flow from a vein or artery.
In addition, make the bandage loose enough for a finger to slip underneath.
No, you should not use one of these devices.
We repeat, you should not use one of these devices.
Typically once thought of as a standard procedure when you receive a possibly venomous snake bite, the use of this device has been debunked.
Please watch this Tedx Talk by the brilliant herpetologist Jordan Benjamin, where he goes into detail on this very topic.
Moreover, we have an entire article written by Jordan Benjamin with respect to dealing with venomous snake bites which you can read here.
It goes into much greater detail, and we recommend reading it if you have the time.
Unlike poisonous snakes, pythons and boas kill their prey not through the injection of venom, but by constriction.
This gives credence to the naming of said snakes: constrictors.
A constrictor coils its body around its prey, squeezing it until the pressure is great enough to kill.
Since pythons and boas can grow to be nearly twenty feet long, they are fully capable of killing a grown person.
Small children are even more vulnerable.
The good news is that most pythons will strike and then try to get away, rather than consume a full-grown human.
But if you do get caught...
This will minimize constriction strength, but not totally, as a python usually continues constricting well after the prey is dead and not moving.
Remember how Indiana Jones hated snakes?
Well, now you know why.
They're not something you should mess around with.
Again, we highly recommend you read this article here by Jordan Benjamin, which goes into much greater detail than we do.
He is truly an expert on this specific subject, after all.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>The following is an excerpt written by Jordan Benjamin, a herpetologist specializing in venomous snakes and a wilderness medicine practitioner.
He is the founder of SnakeBiteFoundation.org.
You can also view his Tedx Talk here.
This excerpt was taken from Amazon.com--it is the first written review for this product here.
We chose to copy and paste it onto our website because of how important this information is with respect to snake bites.
We would be doing our customers, and everyone for that matter, a major disservice if we did not share it.
Note: We added additional paragraph breaks to make it easier to read--the content remains unedited.
--
"Hello,
My name is Jordan Benjamin, I am a herpetologist specializing in venomous snakes and a wilderness medicine practitioner with experience treating many snakebite patients in West and East Africa, most of them in remote health centers that pose some of the same challenges as treatment of a snakebite in the wilderness or backcountry environment in the US (supplies are limited or non-existent, the patient has a long way to go to reach a hospital, etc).
I have also been fortunate to have the opportunity to train a number of individuals and groups in snakebite medicine and field management of snake envenomations in remote conditions including medical officers and corpsmen with the US military, local & international doctors and nurses in African hospitals, wildlife rangers, etc.
I am including my background and real name because this issue is important to me and I stand by everything I am about to write; I want to give you all the peace of mind that I am who I say I am and not some competing company throwing out baseless accusations behind the cloak of online anonymity.
Feel free to look me up online, I gave a TEDx talk on the issue of snakebite in sub-Saharan Africa last year and I invite those who doubt my identity or simply want to learn more about the issue of snakebite in the developing world to check it out. Moving on to the review...
The short answer to the question of whether or not the Sawyer Extractor can effectively remove venom from the site of the bite is a resounding no: the Sawyer Extractor and all of the other "snakebite kit" variations employing suction, incisions, electricity, heat, cold, and so forth have been repeatedly shown to be utterly ineffective at the job they are designed and marketed to accomplish.
They simply do not work! The caveat it that there is one clever application of the sawyer that has been proven to work great, which is for the removal of flesh-eating botfly larvae that can be acquired in various tropical regions of the world...see "Simple and effective field extraction of human botfly, Dermatobia hominis, using a venom extractor" [...]. I am afraid to say that at the moment that is the only medical situation where this device may possibly prove helpful.
When it comes to snakebites, it is not only completely ineffective at removing venom from tissue following a snakebite, but may actually prove harmful and cause a serious local necrosis (think in terms of a cookie-cutter style wound forming a deep cylinder of rotting dead tissue under the site of application).
This may be due to a concentration of residual cytotoxic and myotoxic venoms near the site of the bite, while the majority of the venom will continue to diffuse into systemic circulation - but since we really don't know exactly why this happens that is purely speculation.
For any interested parties, the article demonstrating this is titled: "Effects of a negative pressure venom extraction device (Extractor) on local tissue injury after artificial rattlesnake envenomation in a porcine model." I am attaching a link to the article here: [...]
There are probably several reasons why this type of first aid does not work. One issue is that the recurved fangs of vipers penetrate and inject venom deeply into the tissues beneath the skin, and the tunnel created when a fang penetrates the skin immediately collapses as soon as the fang is withdrawn. Another issue is that large quantities of venom are believed to diffuse very rapidly into different tissue compartments.
This means that there is no direct route between the visible puncture marks on the surface to the area where venom was injected, and the significant quantity of venom is already well on its way.
I have read the company's testimonials and seen the occasional news stories about a snakebite victim "whose life was saved by the Sawyer Extractor" or similar device, and all too often that is a quote attributed to the physician who treated them.
I don't doubt the veracity of the quote as deeply entrenched myths and misinformation about snakes and snakebite are unfortunately as common in doctors as they are in the rest of society at this time.
The sawyer extractor is popular because it provides us with an intuitively sound solution to the terrifying prospect of suffering a snakebite far from medical care, suddenly rendered utterly helpless as the venom takes effect and all we (or our loved ones) can do is wait and watch as the venom takes over.
It is nothing more than a modern variation of the infamous "black stone" from Asia and Africa, a charred piece of cow bone that is stuck to the site of the snakebite and remains there absorbing fluid until all the venom has been drawn out of the bite whereupon it suddenly detaches and falls to the ground, is boiled or washed in milk to cleanse it of the venom, and ready to go when the next snakebite happens.
Both of them provide the perfect optical illusion by visibly extracting some quantity of blood and straw-colored fluid (which looks incredibly similar to many viper venoms) from the site of the bite, but this is nothing more than the pale-yellow plasma (whats left after you remove the red cells and clotting components from blood) and other exudate draining from the wound as edema sets in and the venom begins to show effect.
If you feel like you have been duped, don't take it personally - the notion that a snakebite can be treated by somehow extracting the venom has successfully fooled us since at least the 1400's, when the black stone was first mentioned as the go-to remedy for treating snake envenomations.
Several years ago, a close colleague of mine met a European surgeon who was in Central Africa on a medical mission and explained that he needn't worry about snakebite, because he always carried a black stone with him for such a situation...as you can see, even the most highly educated medical professionals are not immune to the myths that pervade the issue of snakebite.
I grew up carrying a sawyer extractor with me whenever I went out to look for snakes and lizards, and no one would be happier to hear that the sawyer extractor did what it claims than those of us who work with snakes and face an incidence of snakebite many times higher than that of the larger population. But the reality is that these devices do not work for snakebites, and marketing them for that purpose is a dangerous action with potentially tragic consequences.
Evidence-based medicine and all studies to date suggest that they are at best ineffective and at worst harmful. If you would like to see more evidence of this, check out:
"Snakebite Suction Devices Don’t Remove Venom: They Just Suck" [...]
and
Suction for Venomous Snakebite: A Study of 'Mock Venom' Extraction in a Human Model" [...].
This product has no business being marketed for use on snakebite. Out of more than 40 snakebite patients I have treated in Africa, 95% of them had already been given bad first aid prior to seeking treatment at the hospital.
Practices like cutting at or around the site of the bite, applying tourniquets to the bitten limb, and attempting to extract or neutralize venom using electricity, fire, permanganate, black stones, magic, mouths, mud, dung, leaves, ground-up dried snakes, and yes - even fancy suction devices like the Sawyer Extractor - are dangerous and detrimental for two reasons.
First, in a snakebite time is tissue and a lot of it is wasted performing bad first aid. Many snakebite patients injure themselves by panicking immediately after the bite, I have seen more than a few individuals who suffered serious traumatic injuries in addition to the snakebite because they took off running from the snake at full speed only to suddenly fall face-first onto a rock or trip and stumble over the edge of a steep embankment.
The second issue is that signs of an envenomation may in some cases take hours to appear, and the combination of seeing a useless suction device drawing fluid out of the bite along with a delayed onset of symptoms is an easy way to decide that you don't need medical care after all because you the used extractor less than minute after the bite and saw it remove the venom, or you feel fine and don't want to inconvenience the whole group because you've all been planning this trip for months, or any number of other rationalizations we can make with ourselves to keep from going in to get the bite checked out.
The majority of bites from venomous snakes in the United States are suffered by young men between the ages of 18 - 25 who are intoxicated (usually alcohol) and attempting to pick up, kill, or otherwise interact very closely with a potentially deadly snake. This is a demographic that is particularly prone to making the wrong decision about whether they should laugh it off cause they feel okay or should immediately seek medical care for a life-threatening emergency. I have had patients come early after the bite and I have had patients come after great delays, and I have noticed two things.
The first is that those who arrive early often do so because they are suffering from a severe envenomation and become very ill very quickly, while those who come late often waited because they believed falsely that the first aid measures taken were sufficient or that they were not seriously envenomated. The second observation is that many of the patients who wait come in when they finally reach their own line in the sand for what constitutes a serious enough problem to go to the hospital, and they often tend to have more complications, longer hospitalizations, and a higher chance that the bite will result in permanent disability because of how long the venom has been allowed to work unchecked.
They often arrive in the critical condition with severe envenomations just like the group of severely envenomated patients with the shortest delay to care, but instead of showing up in a critical state of hemorrhagic or hypovolemic shock they arrive in shock with their kidneys failing, or with late-stage bleeding into the brain, meninges, abdominal cavity to compound all of the other symptoms. Late-stage complications can be incredibly difficult to treat, they are excruciatingly painful for patients, heart-wrenching cases for medical personnel, and they are entirely preventable with prompt care.
If you are bitten by a venomous snake or are unsure as to whether or not the snake is venomous, please, please, please focus on how to get yourself safely to emergency medical care and don't bet your life on any of these commercial snakebite kits.
The only effective, definitive treatment for a snake envenomation is the appropriate antivenom to neutralize the venom of the species you were just bit by. I repeat, THE ONLY EFFECTIVE TREATMENT FOR SNAKE ENVENOMATION IS THE APPROPRIATE ANTIVENOM.
Repeat that five times and them move on to some helpful tips on what you actually should do in the event of a snakebite in the middle of nowhere.
To end this lengthy review on a positive note, there are several things I would suggest you do following a snakebite that are extremely beneficial.
1. Walk, don't run, and carefully retrace your steps to get out of the immediate vicinity of the snake and avoid the possibility of stepping on any others nearby.
20 or 30 feet should be more than sufficient, the snake wants to get away as much as you do.
2. Find a safe place to sit down.
This is important! Viper venoms in particular contain vasodilating compounds that open up your blood vessels to facilitate rapid diffusion of venom out into systemic circulation, which means you may suddenly suffer a dizzy spell and faint because your blood pressure just dropped too low to pump all the way to your head while you are standing upright.
This is relatively common with viper bites and often happens in the first few minutes, so do yourself a favor and sit down so you don't pass out while running and hit your head on a rock.
Like I said, you would be surprised...it happens all the time. These are usually brief fainting spells and you stand a good chance of avoiding it altogether by not standing up in a state of abject terror, but if you faint it shouldn't be more than a few minutes before you are cognizant again and I guess if you want to look at the bright side, you just really nailed the whole relaxation part of step 3 and are sort of ahead of the game...but you should repeat step 3 now that you are conscious anyways.
3. Remove any rings, watches, bangles, anklets, tight clothing, and anything else from the bitten limb because there is a good chance it is going to get a whole lot bigger than it was when you bought that toe ring.
Do this because any of these items could potential become a tourniquet when swelling makes them impossible to remove, and that could cost you the limb below whatever is choking off the supply of oxygenated blood.
Tourniquets of any sort are not good for snakebite, so please don’t try to tie your shoelaces or belt or anything else above whatever part of you just got bitten. There are somewhere between 5,000 - and 10,000 snake envenomations in the US every year, but most will not suffer any major permanent disability and on average only 5 people will die in a given year (mostly very old, very young, highly allergic, and other high-risk populations).
Your odds are quite good, so be grateful you live in the US and make sure you don’t become a (bad) statistic by doing something stupid that makes your situation a whole lot worse than it was already.
4. Now that you are sitting, take at least 5 minutes to calm down and put your mind to a productive task: planning your evacuation.
Time to break out the two items that I highly recommend for a snakebite kit that will help you save your own hide. First up...Do you have a cell phone? Does it have service here?
If not, where did it last have a connection? Since the only effective treatment for a snake envenomation is the right antivenom to neutralize it, a working cell phone is your best means of getting information out to the emergency personnel who will do everything in their power to bring you safely out of the field and into the best medical facility for your current predicament.
If you can call right away, those 5 minutes you took to calm down are going to prove helpful in relaying key information such as who you are, where you are, what happened, how you are feeling, as well as pertinent information like any other coexisting medical conditions and medications you currently take.
If you take any sort of anticoagulants (blood thinners) then that is definitely something you want to inform them of right away, and please folks - DO NOT TAKE ASPIRIN, ADVIL, OR OTHER NSAIDS AFTER A SNAKEBITE. All of those medicines thin your blood, and they can cause very nasty problems for snakebite patients.
Tylenol (acetaminophen) is okay, take up to 2x 500mg tablets if you feel the need as it won't interact with the snakebite in any way but don't forget to tell the medics everything you have taken when they get there to avoid being double-dosed.
The second item I cannot speak highly enough of for snakebites is...drumroll...a sharpie! If you are seriously envenomated, your primary objective right now is to get to the antivenom and get the IV flowing so it can do its job.
From a clinical standpoint, there are several things you can keep track of now that will prove immensely beneficial when you reach the hospital and we are assessing the severity of your snakebite to figure out if you need antivenom, how much you need right now if you do, and what other effects the venom is causing so we can treat them with the other drugs we have available and try to make your stay a little more comfortable.
Here's how this works. You are going to assess yourself from top to bottom and document significant findings on your person along with the time that you are observing it. Notes can get lost during evacuation or rescue, but your leg is coming with you to the hospital whether you like or not so get ready to mark it up! First thing is to circle the site of the snakebite with the sharpie and write down the time next to it.
Draw a circle around the border of the swelling, or if the bite is on a finger or toe then draw a line at the edge of the swelling as it moves up the limb, and once again: write down the time. Write down all of the things that you are experiencing right now that are not normal for you next to or within the circle you just drew - just make sure it’s clear what time you are writing them at. Go through all of your 5 senses and write down everything that is out of place, being sure to include the following:
Metallic taste in your mouth, changes to sense of smell, sudden loss of vision, double vision, visual disturbances, ringing in the ears, headache, nausea and vomiting, bleeding from anywhere, dizziness, shortness of breath, tremors or twitching or cramping that moves up the bitten limb, pain, numbness, tingling, burning, electric shocks, and all manner of unusual sensations, loss of bowel or bladder control, excessive secretion of saliva/tears/snot/sweat, droopy eyelids that feel heavier and heavier and are hard to open, can’t stick out your tongue at your friends like you could a few minutes earlier, can’t shrug your shoulders, feeling of impending doom, and anything else we might want to know about (if you suddenly believe that you have developed a sixth sense you should probably mention that too).
Not only do you get to take a break for arts and crafts immediately after your snakebite, but you are also creating a timeline charting the progression of signs and symptoms as they occur and providing the critical information we medical people need to figure out how serious of a bite you are facing and what steps need to be taken to stay on top of a developing situation.
In all seriousness, the importance of doing this cannot be overstated, and it is something that you should continually reassess and update every 15 or 30 minutes as the swelling moves up the limb and your symptoms develop. The other great thing about this is that it gives you something to focus on that will play a large part in saving your life and limb, and having a task really does help you to stay calm and get things done. The first few minutes are going to play a large part in how this whole thing turns out, so stay calm and put on your thinking cap.
5. Try make contact via cell phone if it is easily doable, calm down and carefully assess/document what you find, and if you cannot get in touch with anyone then you need to very carefully think about where you are, how you got there, and what options you have to either get yourself to help or get help to you.
I have had patients who walked miles out of the bush after serious snakebites to their legs, they did’t die from exerting themselves like many people fear will happen and they all recovered because they made it out to medical care.
You will be much better off walking yourself out, slowly, via the same way you came in than you will be sitting around waiting for help if you couldn’t reach anyone and no one knows you need help.
I am not suggesting you skip or do high kicks your whole way out (I think that it would be painful enough that you would be forced to stop doing them before you could do any serious harm), I am suggesting you plan the easiest, most well-travelled route back to civilization, take stock of your supplies and get some food and water in you so you don’t pass out on the way from something preventable like dehydration, watch your footing and move slow and steady to your target destination.
Remember, the basic principles are pretty simple. Stay calm or get calm, find a place to get yourself together and check your resources, remove constricting bands, document the envenomation, hydrate and nourish, contact help, or make a careful plan to make contact one way or another and get out the word that you need medical assistance.
Don’t let fears of “raising your heart rate and increasing the speed of venom circulation” prevent you from physically moving to get to care.
From what I have seen, the venom is going to get out into circulation regardless of whether or not you sit still for 24 hours or apply a suction device like the sawyer. If you apply a tourniquet you may manage to prevent the venom from traveling out into circulation, but that would be a big mistake to make because you face a very high chance of losing your limb.
Don’t put a tourniquet on and unless you fall into one of the high-risk categories discussed earlier, there is a very good chance that you will recover completely following prompt and appropriate treatment at a hospital. And remember folks, when it comes to snakebite no first aid is a whole lot better than bad first aid in the long run!
Tell the boy scout to put away the pocketknife, don’t kill your own limb with a tourniquet, don’t listen to the weirdo you pass on the trail who enthusiastically offers to suck the venom out with his mouth or pee into the wound because it saved his friend all those years back…And if you have a sawyer extractor or any of the other varieties, just remember that when it comes to snakebite they really do suck.
Show it to someone else and pass on the word that devices like this are more likely to cost you your life or limb than to save it, because folks who are making them have thus far been unwilling to stop making claims about these devices that have been repeatedly debunked by researchers.
Don’t throw it away though, because if you ever get a botfly larva under your skin while in the tropics you can seriously impress your friends with the worlds most shocking entomological party trick when you whip out the sawyer botfly extractor and expertly suck out a wriggling maggot from the painful red bump on your backside that it currently calls home.
If you read this far, congratulations and thank you for listening."
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]]>We've all seen the movies where a power line comes crashing down from amongst the trees and lands onto the road or atop the car.
High-voltage power lines, which carry the power from plants and transformers to customers, can come tumbling down during severe storms at a moment's notice.
The danger of this trope is more than fiction, however.
While it won't happen every day (hopefully!), a downed power line won't be totally unusual if the SHTF.
In fact, if your power has ever been out for long periods, this incident is frequently the root cause of all the trouble.
So what is one to do if they bump into a fallen power line?
Note: if you are in a car when a pole or line falls, it is much safer to remain inside the grounded vehicle than getting out on foot.
If the wire falls on the car, do not touch anything--stay inside and wait for help.
This is comparable to the assumption that all firearms are loaded.
You never know what's changed when you take your eyes away, even for a moment.
While you may be thinking, "Duh," electric current can travel through any conductive material, and water on the ground can provide a "channel" from the power line to your body.
An electrical shock can also occur if you come into contact with the charged particles near a high-voltage line; direct contact is not necessary for electrocution to occur.
Never touch a vehicle that has come in contact with a live wire--it may still retain a charge.
Often, power may be restored by automated equipment, causing a "dead" wire to become dangerous.
Stay away from downed lines even if you know they are not electric lines--the line could have come in contact with an electric line when it fell, causing the downed line to be "hot."
Use a wooden broom handle, a wooden chair, or a dry towel or sheet.
If you choose to use a towel or something similar, double-check it is not wet!
It's also worth noting that rubber or insulated gloves offer no protection.
Check this link here if you'd like to grab first-aid kits or additional survival equipment to store in your vehicle in case of life-threatening situations like this.
Downed power lines may not appear to be as dramatic as they are presented in the media and entertainment, yet they are still just as lethal and dangerous.
If you do ever happen to come across them on your adventures, heed our advice, stay clear, and take the appropriate action if someone is injured.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>A sinking car.
One of the stickiest of sticky situations, and something you'll probably never face.
Yet, like all things preppers think about, we shall prep for it.
This is your best chance of escape because opening the door will soon be very difficult given the outside water pressure.
To be safe, if you're driving somewhere where you think your car may indeed suddenly plunge into the depths, we'd recommend driving with the windows and doors slightly open whenever you are near the water or are driving on ice.
Opening the windows allows water to come in and equalize the pressure.
Once the water pressure inside and outside the car is equal, you'll be able to open the door with ease.
Our roadside flashlight, fitted with a glass-smashing hammer and seat-belt cutter, will be your best friend in this very situation and makes for an excellent vehicle companion.
Don't worry about leaving anything behind unless it happens to be another person.
Vehicles with engines in front will sink at a steep angle, so you must get out as soon as possible, while the car is still afloat.
If the water is fifteen feet or deeper, the vehicle may end up on its roof, upside down.
Depending on the vehicle, floating time will range from a few seconds to a few minutes. The more airtight the car, the longer it floats.
The air in the car will quickly be forced out through the trunk and cab, and an air bubble is unlikely to remain once the car hits bottom.
Get out as early as possible.
No material possession is worth risking your skin over.
Remain calm and do not panic.
Wait until the car begins filling with water.
Once the water reaches your head, take a deep breath and hold it.
Now the pressure should be equalized inside and outside, and you should be able to open the door and swim to the surface.
Things to keep in mind...
Worrying about your car sinking probably means you're on a serious adventure.
If this is the case, we're confident that this information will rush back to you if the time comes.
Stay prepared, friends!
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>Let's ask the question that's on your mind.
When would you ever have to do this?
Perhaps you're busting through a police barricade, breaking through a government checkpoint, or incapacitating the car of an illicit pursuer.
Not all 'authorities' are righteousness, just, and 'can do no wrong.'
Ramming a car to move it out of your way is not easy or safe, but there are some methods that work better than others and some that will minimize the damage to your vehicle.
Keep in mind that the best way to hit a car blocking your path is to clip the very rear of it, about one foot from the rear bumper.
The rear is the lightest part of a car, and it will move relatively easily.
Hitting a vehicle in the rear can also disable it--with the rear wheel crushed, you have time to get away without being pursued.
You're now prepared to ram.
What's the first step?
It will deploy on impact and will obstruct your view after it deploys.
It might be awkward to fly through your windshield and land on the hood of the car you just rammed.
Do not go too fast--keeping the car at a slow speed will allow you to maintain control without slowing down.
Then just before impact, increase your speed to greater than thirty miles per hour to deliver a disabling crunch to the rear wheel of the obstacle car.
Avoid hitting the car squarely in the side; this will not move it out of your way.
Viola!
In a perfect world, you'll never have to do this.
But, alas, we do not live in a perfect world.
Stay safe out there.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>While spinning your car 180-degrees may seem like a skill reserved only for movie stuntmen, there may come a time in your life where you need it most.
Bigfoot drops into a dead sprint and is heading straight for your jeep, a zombie horde is running around the corner of an alleyway, or a member from a pack of raptors appears on the dirt path ahead of you, you never know when you'll have to suddenly spin your car around.
Let's get to it...
1. Put the car in reverse.
2. Select a spot straight ahead. Keep your eyes on it, and begin backing up.
3. Jam on the gas.
4. Sharply cut the wheel ninety degrees around (a quarter turn) as you simultaneously drop the transmission into drive.
Make sure you have enough speed to use the momentum of the car to swing it all the way around, but also remember that going too fast (greater than forty-five miles per hour) can be dangerous and may flip the car over (and strip your gears).
Keep in mind that turning the wheel left will swing the rear of the car left, whereas turning the wheel right will swing the car right.
5. When the car has completed the turn, step on the gas and head off.
Escape the pack of men or beasts headed your way!
1. While in drive, or a forward gear, accelerate to a moderate rate of speed (again, anything faster than forty-five miles per hour risks flipping the car).
2. Slip the car into neutral to prevent the front wheels from spinning.
3. Take your foot off the gas and turn the wheel ninety degrees (a quarter turn) while pulling hard on the emergency brake.
4. As the rear swings around, return the wheel to its original position and put the car back into drive.
5. Step on the gas to start moving in the direction from which you came.
You did it!
The 180-degree turn while moving forward is more difficult for the following reasons:
Be careful when you perform this, and use your noggin'.
Survey the conditions around you and make sure that even if you follow all the instructions here correctly, the environment around you won't negatively affect the success of your turn.
You may remember an older family member or relative taking you to a big Walmart parking lot or something similar when you were first learning to drive.
Probably in the dead of night or early in the morning too.
If you'd like a chance to practice this so you'll be ready when that faithful moment arrives, this is the perfect way to do so.
It's not every day that you'll feel pressured to spin your car 180-degrees.
In fact, maybe there's no pressure at all, and you just want to do it for fun.
Well, this is how it's done.
Go forth, young Survival Cat Readers, and spin that car of yours (with all safety precautions taken, of course!!)
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>Happy Christmas & Holidays Friends,
We have a free gift for you this December!
Simply add this lighter to your cart with any other purchase you intend to make, and a discount will be applied automatically, letting you get the lighter for free :)
Cheers!
Survival Cat Team
Expires January 5th
]]>Read the previous installment of this series here:
Having the right gear and equipment can feel overwhelming.
More so if you're planning to travel by foot and you're not sure how to thoroughly pack without sacrificing movement and versatility.
Consider the research you've previously done about your destination, and from there, determine what dangers you may face.
What is absolutely crucial to have on hand?
What will the climate be like?
Can you spread out the necessary gear amongst several people to carry?
"There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing."
Picking the right clothing can really make or break your entire trip.
Man is naturally designed to survive in warm climates.
Once we find ourselves somewhere cold, clothing becomes essential.
The wind and the rain are the most dangerous elements in a temperate environment, whereas the extremely frigid conditions of the polar regions are their most treacherous hazard.
In a cold environment, layering is the answer to keeping yourself warm.
Pull-on a jersey if it gets cold and a waterproof jacket and pants if it rains.
Furthermore, it is important to pay attention to the 'state' of your clothes whilst trekking.
In other words, if you're carrying a heavy backpack, it's possible that the weight on the shoulders could cause water to push through any garments and soak your body.
While this isn't the worst thing in the world, be advised that you should change into dry and warm clothing each time you stop if this happens.
In hot climates, it can be difficult to find that perfect balance right between comfort and practicality.
The trick is to wear the least amount of clothing while on the move or during any physical exertion to avoid overheating and subsequent burnout.
Finally, we'd be amiss to not mention this: ex-military and surplus kits may not be your best bet for buying cheap outdoor clothing. Many of them are already used up and in poor condition by the time the military is ready to get rid of them.
Furthermore, the big drawback of wearing camouflage or dark clothing is the reduction of visibility for rescue crews if lost.
That will really only be a problem though if you're very far out in the boonies.
To sum up, clothing should give you good protection and be well-fitting without being too restrictive.
It must keep you warm and dry but have plenty of ways to keep the body ventilated so you don't overheat, and, if you get cold, you can always put on more.
With all the recent breakthroughs in 'fabric-technology,' it's worth taking a moment to understand all your options and their respective pros and cons.
Gore-tex
Gore-tex is an excellent material because it is both breathable and keeps you warm while simultaneously allowing for ventilation so you don't overheat.
Sounds perfect, right?
Alas, it does have a few limitations.
Breathable materials only work effectively if they are kept clean.
If they get covered in mud or accumulate grime of some sort, they may be toast.
Moreover, it is not robust or hard-wearing and must be looked after.
In our opinion, the best way to use Gore-tex is to walk or climb in your windproof garments and then when resting put on your breathable outfit.
Fleece
Synthetic materials like fleece are very popular and in many circumstances outperform their natural counterparts like wool, down, or cotton.
Fleece is a favorite amongst many, and for good reason!
It's great!
Having a zipped front fleece makes it easy to quickly pull it on or off and they are very comfortable to walk in.
Ideally, you want to snag one that is windproof, but this isn't necessary if you know your coming destination's weather well.
That'll be all you need in most conditions, and if it does rain, simply put on a waterproof jacket over the fleece and you're good to go.
Wool
Wool is an excellent choice for sweaters or sweatshirts.
They retain their warmth even when wet.
The downside is that it can stretch and become very heavy when waterlogged.
It isn't too noticeable, however, in the case of wool socks it can definitely detract from your comfort when walking.
Down
The warmest and lightest of all the natural insulating materials.
Its flaw?
It looses all its heat-retaining qualities when wet.
To combat this, most down jackets always have a waterproof shell.
Down is our personal favorite for jackets.
Cotton
Last up on this list of materials is cotton.
Cotton is unique to other materials in that it acts as a wick and is able to draw up all moisture around it.
It can be a good choice in the tropic regions but we'd suggest you stay away from it in wet and cold environments.
Something that should never be overlooked.
If you're doing a lot of walking--or plan to--you'll quickly notice if you made a mistake or not in this department.
Don't skip over it.
First and foremost, if you're not used to walking continuously, it may be a good idea to spend two weeks or so regularly walking several miles/kilometers.
Not only will this toughen up your feet and build callouses, but it will give you a chance to break-in your hiking boots if you just recently purchased them.
Moreover, with a fair trial run like this, you'll know for sure if they're going to work for you or not.
The last thing you want is to realize several hours into your journey that the boots you purchased don't suit your feet for whatever reason.
Alternatively, if you're looking for a cheap substitute for boots or you'd like something lightweight that easily slip into a pack for use on a moment's notice, check out our Protective Waterproof Anti-Slip Shoe Covers.
Likewise, we recommend purchasing socks that are specifically designed for long treks and hiking.
While your Nike Dry-Fits might work well on a run, they probably won't make your feet very happy up in the mountains.
There are two primary types available: one kind uses hollow-fill, man-made fibers, whereas the other--and more expensive kind--is filled with down.
We carry the first type which you can check out here.
Down is very light and gives much better insulation, however, if it gets wet it can be very difficult to dry out and it will subsequently lose all its insulating properties.
For conditions that are going to be wet, go with the first type.
You can also purchase a bivvy (bivouac) bag to wrap up your sleeping bag to protect it from the elements while you use it.
Bivvy bags can also be used as a make-shift tent in a pinch. They'll easily fit with the rest of your gear when put into a compression pack to make them as small as possible.
Lastly, it's in your best interest to put your sleeping bag on top of a sleeping mat or poncho to ensure it stays clean and dry, along with the bivvy bag.
Our favorite 'gear' subject.
Your backpack must be strong, comfortable, and well-built.
Choose the very best you can afford, with fully adjustable webbing and a solid frame.
It should be tough enough to endure the roughest climates while also allowing you to carry a heavy-load without turning into a burden.
The secret of wearing a pack is to take the weight securely on the hips--the body's strongest pivot point--rather than on the shoulders and back, which can tire out quickly.
With respect to backpack choice, the first thing to consider is whether you want a pack with an external or internal frame.
If you're not sure what we mean by that, it's okay, we were initially confused when we first heard of internal and external frames.
External frames are backpacks with the 'backpack framework' on the outside of the pack, whereas internal frames are backpacks that are built around the framework itself, like a body around a skeleton.
All the packs we carry are internal, whereas we've pulled up some external packs here so you can see the visual distinction.
So aside from aesthetics, what's the difference?
Internal frames are lighter and make a pack more easy to stow, whereas external frames are stronger, ensure a more even distribution of the load, and are especially useful for carrying any awkward or heavy equipment -- including a sick or injured person in an emergency!
The old school style external frame pack is your best choice if you're hiking on mostly groomed trails and carrying lots of weight. The even weight distribution will also allow you to more easily hike with an upright posture.
Yet, the frame by itself adds additional weight and is more prone to snagging on rocky projections or loose hanging branches.
The internal frame packs are typically more form-fitting, so they're a better option for individuals who will be hiking rugged trails that will require much more freedom of movement and balance.
They're composed of the classic backpack style we're all familiar with--one large compartment with a couple of zippered access points and one or two smaller additional compartments.
By contrast, the external frame pack will usually have many smaller compartments, making the organization slightly easier in some instances. Moreover, you can also easily attach extra gear, like a sleeping bag or fishing rod, directly to the frame.
Finally, choose a pack that is made from durable, waterproof fabric, preferably with a built-in lace-up hood inside the primary compartment to prevent water from leaking in or spilling the contents out when on the move.
It is also worth noting that side pockets are always useful, but they must have secure zips rather than straps or drawstrings, which will not hold your equipment safely.
If you expect to get wet in any measure, stow everything you can in waterproof dry-bags.
Furthermore, pack so that you know where everything is and so that the first things you need are not buried down at the bottom.
The sleeping bag will usually always be the last thing you need, so put that at the bottom.
In like manner, your tent and any heavy kits like a radio should go at the top, since they are more easily carried there.
Be careful to not try and pack your belongings 'too high,' so to speak, so that you're not expending any of your energy attempting to balance the pack on your back.
The best place to pack your stove and brew-kit are in the side pockets, that way if you come to an impromptu halt you'll have easy access.
Ensure that your food is in a suitable container or pouch so it doesn't get squashed by any other items or melt due to the climate.
Before packing any food, to save carry space, take into account any items that can be routinely picked-up locally and allow you to live off the land.
A G.P.S. (Global Positioning System) is an excellent piece of equipment and has consequently taken a lot of skill away from the navigator.
These systems receive radio signals from satellites and can locate your current position, anywhere in the world, and are relatively easy to use.
You need at least two satellites to get a good position, but the more that are available, the better, which will additionally improve the accuracy.
With a clear signal, G.P.S. units have a 95% accuracy rate, provided there are no obstructions in the way like tree branches or something similar.
In addition, standing still in a clearing of some sort is optimal.
It is bad practice to solely rely on a G.P.S. to do all the navigating for you, so navigating normally in conjunction with regular map reading is advised, then using the G.P.S. to confirm your location or correct it as an added supplement.
If you're on the hunt for purchasing a G.P.S., there are several things to consider: if walking, the unit should be lightweight; where you'll be using it; does the unit need to be waterproof (this is typically always a feature nowadays).
Quick aside: this is an affordable and high-quality G.P.S. we recommend.
It is of utmost importance that you also consider the battery life and complexity of the G.P.S. as these two features can really affect how happy you are with the unit.
Some have so many features that you'll dread ever using it, whereas others will have a battery life so short you'll be wondering why you ever bothered to buy it.
Batteries also discharge much faster in cold weather, and with age. Take both of these factors into account.
Recharging can be difficult in the wilderness, so it may also behoove you to invest in a solar panel charger and extra battery packs.
Finally, the perfect place to carry your G.P.S. unit is right around the neck tucked under a jacket. This will minimize any chance of damage and keep it protected from the weather.
Pro Tip: If you're planning your trip from a map, log regular intervals into your G.P.S. ahead of time that are no more than an hour apart to keep you on track.
"If you cannot afford a radio, you cannot afford the expedition."
For any trip of any kind, a radio is an absolute necessity.
To start, we suggest you pick a model with the least amount of channels available to suit your particular needs because a multi-channeled radio can often lead to confusion and result in usage of the wrong one.
The common 'radio-strategy' is to have one working channel that everyone uses coupled with a priority channel that you can switch to in an emergency so that no one will break into your transmissions.
Additionally, it is in your best interest to be aware of the channel frequency of coastguards, forest rangers, or any other local 'authority' group. In the same way, knowing the frequency of the World Service is also useful.
Furthermore, if your journey is intended to be much longer than a short trek in the woods, prearranging a signal plan with scheduled calls in the morning and evening will add yet another layer of security to your travels.
A signal plan entails people manning the radio at a base and two-way communication.
In other words, this allows for regular check-ins with a lookout of sorts while also simultaneously granting smooth communication with multiple parties of your group if it is large--all radios communicate through the base first before transferring their transmission to other group members to avoid any confusion when communicating
Two last things to remember regarding radios:
Everyone at some point will spew verbal diarrhea when speaking over the radio. You may suddenly feel like you're trying to talk to your drunk friend in a dive bar.
The remedy?
Talk slowly, speak softly, pitch your voice slightly higher than normal, and use the phonetic alphabet when spelling out words of any kind.
In the same way, have an emergency action plan in place if things go haywire.
If you miss two scheduled calls to your base in a row, for example, your base will know that this is the signal to alert rescue teams or search crews.
Proper implementation of radios is key in keeping yourself and your party safe and secure out in the wilderness.
Finally, take a look at these two radio models we have available here and here.
You should have a 'heavy-duty' receiver--like one of the two models above--in addition to walkie talkies.
Presently, just about everyone has a mini-computer in their pocket with an application for nearly every feasible situation to boot.
They're often loaded up with a digital version of everything we've mentioned above, minus clothing and packs, of course.
Does that mean you can forget your G.P.S., walkie-talkies, flashlights, and so on?
Not exactly.
Don't get us wrong here.
We're sure there are plenty of examples where a radio has broken down or a G.P.S. unit has fried and an iPhone 7 flew in to save the day.
We view mobile phones as simply another safeguard in your survival toolkit.
Furthermore, some phones are better than others and their functionality can differ vastly with respect to the network plan and service available.
You must take this into account when choosing a phone to bring along with you.
Like a G.P.S., battery life and charging capabilities must also be considered.
A few charger styles that are commonly used while 'on the go' include pocket-sized power banks, dual-port solar power banks, and window solar power banks typically used in vehicles.
An altimeter (altitude meter) is an instrument used to measure the altitude of an object above a fixed level.
Sounds useful, but is it really necessary?
Altimeters aren't a new tool, and they've also fallen in price recently, consistently added as an additional feature to many sport-style watches.
If you have a topographic map handy, using an altimeter will help you pinpoint your exact location or whereabouts with ease.
Many survival sagas begin because of bad navigation, and an altimeter is another indispensable tool to help you avoid such circumstances.
When things go wrong, it isn't because of one singular incident like a faulty G.P.S. connection.
It's a series of events that compound the situation: the radio breaks, the weather deteriorates into a storm, the mobile phone is nowhere to be seen, and so on and so forth.
It benefits all adventurers to have as many tools as possible in their survival kit so they can always be prepared.
So is an altimeter required?
Not like a radio, but we recommend you have one on hand, whether it is an additional feature to your watch, G.P.S., or something similar.
Motorized vehicles may need special adjustments and modifications to deal with extreme conditions or high altitudes, as well as a thorough inspection to make sure everything is in pristine condition and ready to go.
Furthermore, packing extra fuel tanks, water, a jump starter kit, spare tires, and extra parts is not optional.
Whether on a commercial or private airplane or boat, all passengers should be familiar with emergency procedures, exits, and drills.
On commercial transportation, an emergency exit drill is routinely given at some point right before or just after beginning the trip.
The safest place on an aircraft is as close to the tail as possible. This part frequently breaks off from the airplane's body and is usually where the most survivors are found.
If it is a privately owned boat or plane, like motorized vehicles, ensure that a thorough inspection has been completed and all additional auxiliaries are on hand.
There are many questions you must ask yourself in order to ensure you have the right equipment on hand, but once the big ones are out of the way, like, "What is the weather like? Does it get very hot at night?" and so on, picking out the right gear is easy to do.
To wrap up...
If you have any gear you deem essential or have something you'd like to share, please, let us know in the comments!
In the next article, we're going to go over what items you are required to have in your survival kit and how they will protect you when unexpected events occur.
Cheers,
Alexander
If you'd like to add some equipment, gear, or accessories to your survival repertoire please take a look at our collections page and see if there is anything right for you.
Lastly, a lot of our information is from John 'Lofty' Wiseman's SAS Survival Handbook, Third Edition: The Ultimate Guide to Surviving Anywhere -- an excellent companion for any outing.
]]>There's a secret to cleaning retainers.
And we've found it.
No, it isn't a fancy retainer cleaner solution.
It isn't a dissolvable tablet you'll find at the orthodontist.
And it's not going to break the bank.
Plus, it actually works.
We're not joking around here.
Those gross white streaks of nastiness (we're not even sure what they are), actually will come off.
Completely.
Your retainer will look brand new.
We know this sounds too good to be true or like some sort of gimmick, but it's not.
The secret?
Yep.
That's it.
It isn't sexy, but it's effective.
Let your retainer(s) soak in a cup of distilled vinegar for several hours, ideally overnight, and you'll be shocked by how well it works.
If there is any gunk still on the retainer when you take it out, grab an old toothbrush and scrub away.
It'll fall right off.
Behold, your once disgusting, decade-old retainer will suddenly look like you just picked it up this morning!
If you're wondering why this works, it's because vinegar is a very weak acid.
It's strong enough to kill bacteria and other dirtiness, but not strong enough to damage your dental armor.
Please, do try it.
Cheers,
-Alexander
P.S.
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
]]>We probably don't need to tell you this: hot-wiring a car without the owner's permission is illegal, except in repossessions.
But we have to say it.
Anyhow, how does one hot-wire a car?
Hot-wiring can be dangerous; there is a risk of electrical shock, it may waste your time by not working in the first place, and lastly, some cars have embedded 'kill-switches' to prevent hot-wiring altogether.
That aside, let's get crackin'.
If you're unsure how to do this, at the front of the hood there is typically a hook just under the nose that can be pushed either to the left or right depending on the make of the car.
Furthermore, some cars require you to pull down a small lever--or some similar mechanism--that is either to the left or just under the steering wheel.
This is done in addition to unhooking the hinge at the front of the hood.
To find it, simply follow the plug wires, which will lead to the coil wire.
The plug and coil wires are located at the rear of the engine on most V-8s.
On six-cylinder engines, the wires are on the left side near the center of the engine, and on four-cylinder engines, they are located on the right side near the center of the engine.
This step gives power to the dash, and the car will not run unless it is performed first.
The what now?
The solenoid is a type of electric motor that is sent an electric current when the ignition is turned in order to start the engine.
An easy way to find it is to follow the positive battery cable. You will see a small wire and the positive battery cable.
On most GM cars, it is on the starter.
On Fords, it is located on the left-side (passenger-side) fender well.
Cross the two with a screwdriver or pliers.
This will ignite the engine.
If it has an automatic transmission, make sure it is in park.
The last thing you want to do is start the car and have it drive off before you can even turn the steering wheel!
Don't worry, this is actually very easy to do.
Take the screwdriver and place it at the top center of the steering column.
Push the screwdriver between the steering wheel and the column.
Push the locking pin away from the wheel. Be very firm when pushing the pin; they are very well-designed and will not break.
It's possible it can take you a few tries, so don't get discouraged.
If you find yourself in a situation when hot-wiring a car is a must, it shouldn't be too hard to pull off.
Even more so if the car is an older model.
Be careful though.
No need to rush through this and hurt yourself.
Take your time!
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>Wonder no more.
Earlier this week we discovered NuclearSecrecy.com and have been having fun with their nuke map and missile map.
You can cycle through different scenarios, bomb usage, and targets.
Give it a go.
We don't think such a survival scenario is very likely to happen in reality, but hey, it's interesting nonetheless.
With regards to what we do think could happen in the future--will cover that in detail later.
Likewise, that doesn't mean nuclear bombs are off the table.
So we'll go over that too.
Don't worry.
Be happy.
Survival Cat's got your back.
Cheers,
Alexander
P.S.
Take a look out our collections page to meet all your survival and prepping needs.
]]>The human race has shown that it has the capability to survive just about anywhere around the globe.
In the most inhospitable environments--from chilling tundras to arid deserts--we've proven that with the right skills and determination, man's desire to live and thrive anywhere trumps whatever nature decides to throw at him or her.
At the end of the day, there isn't much to understanding the basics of survival.
But that doesn't mean it's easy.
Without further ado, let's get right into it.
No matter where you are in the world the same basic principles of survival never change:
To put these into a clever acronym that is not only easy to remember but also puts them in order of priority:
This often means making or finding shelter and lighting a fire.
Moreover, if you happen to find yourself at the 'scene of an incident' like a plane crash or something similar, you MUST stay there--or as close as safety allows.
You can utilize wreckage for shelter or signaling, it leaves a large signature on the ground for search crews, there may be injured people who cannot be moved, you'll conserve energy, and if you booked your route ahead of time rescue will take significantly less time.
The 'scene of the crime' will be the first place search and rescue crews look!
Once shelter has been built or secured, the next step is to put out emergency signals to draw attention to your position.
Do this as soon as possible!
While you wait for rescue, begin to search the area for drinkable water and food to supplement your emergency supplies.
Good navigation will keep you on route and can often revert a survival situation completely.
Furthermore, if you find yourself stranded, always stay where you are.
Again, it is often the first place that will be searched by rescue teams.
Okay, so this one doesn't quite fit the rest of the acronym but bear with us...
The best doctor to have around has decades of experience treating every type of patient imaginable.
The second best?
Yourself.
You must become your own doctor and learn how to carefully monitor and treat yourself as necessary.
The only person you can count on to always be there when something goes wrong is yourself.
This doesn't mean becoming a nurse as a side gig, but it does mean taking basic first aid skills seriously.
Your survival kit can ultimately be the cause of success or failure.
Life or death.
While it usually won't be that extreme, it can be.
It's a balancing act.
Sometimes people take too much stuff and end up lagging behind the group with a pack 30 lbs overweight.
Other times, you're having to bum food off your mates and using a bundled up T-Shirt as a pillow because you tried to be as minimalist as possible.
Before you pack, ask yourself these questions...
This isn't an end-all-be-all list by any means, but it will help you get started on the right foot.
How long will I be away? How much food and water will I need? Do I need to carry water or can I collect it somewhere?
Do I have the right type of clothing for the climate? Is one pair of boots enough? How many pairs of socks?
What special equipment do I need for the terrain?
What medical kit is appropriate?
What if our vehicle breaks down?
What if someone gets violently ill?
Your health is important.
At the end of the day, it is what survival is all about.
Protecting your health no matter the circumstances.
First and foremost, it is very important to be physically in shape.
Having a 20 lbs pack alongside a 20 lb beer gut won't do you any good out on the trail.
Regular walking--with a weighted vest or pack--is ideal, alongside a standard weight training and cardiovascular routine.
Aside from physical fitness, mental fitness is just as (if not more so!) important.
We've all heard the crazy stories of someone surviving remarkable odds and coming out on top.
When all else fails, your brain will keep you alive and pushing to the very end.
It's a bummer to skip leg day.
But never skip brain day.
If you'd like an actual resource on 'mental strength/mindset,' we recommend Psycho-Cybernetics and A Guide to the Good Life: The Ancient Art of Stoic Joy.
Lastly, it is essential that formal health checkups are also taken.
You need a thorough medical examination to ensure that all your bases are covered--vaccinations for specific areas of travel, addressing any physical pains or ailments, and a trip to the dentist for a teeth inspection.
As an example, if you're traveling through a malarial region, you'll need to get a supply of anti-malaria tablets from your doctor before embarking abroad.
Make sure that aside from everything looking good health-wise you also will have a fully stocked medical and toiletries kit with everything you need.
This includes prescriptions, medicines, and the aforementioned malaria tablets and any other travel medications.
It's always a good idea to read up on the location that you will be visiting.
You can never know too much about it.
Understanding what the local vegetation is like, if you'd be able to build a shelter from your surroundings, and where one could find clean water are all valuable sources of information to have at your disposal.
If this is a group expedition, nominating certain people for different roles can go a long way in determining who brings or does what.
Like some cheesy adventure video-game, assigning roles like medic, linguist, cook, vehicle mechanic, navigator, communication specialist, etc. can be helpful.
Furthermore, ensuring that each group member is familiar with all the equipment and the trips general travel itinerary is worth its weight in gold. It will greatly reduce any stress caused by an impromptu emergency and likewise guarantee that the entire excursion will most likely go smoothly.
With respect to trip time, it would behoove you to not attempt to keep an overly-ambitious schedule.
It is always better to underestimate somewhat and be pleasantly surprised by doing better.
Finally, informing local police, mountain rescue centers, coast guard, port authorities, or whatever relief service is relevant to your venture ahead of time can serve as your 'fail-safe' in case something does ultimately go wrong.
If you're overdue, a search will be raised and the route is checked out, effecting a rescue.
This habit may be the most important of all regarding planning your trip.
Like we said, survival is simple, but not necessarily easy.
In brief...
If you have any essential tips or advice you'd like to share, please, let us know!
We want to hear from you!
Cheers,
Alexander
Read the next installment in this series here: Part 2
If you'd like to add some equipment, gear, or accessories to your survival repertoire please take a look at our collections page and see if there is anything right for you.
Lastly, a lot of our information is from John 'Lofty' Wiseman's SAS Survival Handbook, Third Edition: The Ultimate Guide to Surviving Anywhere -- an excellent companion for any outing.
]]>For that time you accidentally lock your keys in the truck, or there's a zombie outbreak and you're in a rush, we'll be there for you.
Let's get started.
Most cars that are more than ten years old will have vertical, push-button locks. These are locks that come straight out of the top of the car door and have rods that are set vertically inside the door.
These locks can be easily opened with a wire hanger or a SlimJim, or picked, as described below.
Newer cars have horizontal locks, which emerge from the side of the car door are attached to horizontal lock rods.
These are more difficult to manipulate without a special tool but can also be picked.
Everyone's favorite 'in-a-pinch' tool.
Open the door by feel. This will require a 'trial-and-error' approach.
Feel for the end of the button rod and, when you have it, pull it up to open the lock.
Proceed to drive away in bliss.
A SlimJim is a thin piece of spring steel with a notch on one side, which makes it easy to pull the lock rod up.
They can be purchased at most automotive supply stores or online.
Some cars will give you only a quarter of an inch of access to the lock linkage, so go slowly and be patient.
This can break the lock linkage, and on cars with auto-locks, it can easily rip the wires in the door.
You can use a small Allen wrench to turn the lock and a long bobby pin to move the pins and wafers.
Keep in mind that many car locks are harder to pick than door locks.
They often have a small shutter that covers and protects the lock, and this can make the process more difficult.
This is the only way to discern if the pins or wafers--which line up with the notches and grooves in a key--are lined up correctly.
Most locks have five pins.
There are surprisingly few lock variations, and the alien key may just work.
We've used this method in the past with great success.
Throughout this article, we are, of course, assume you are seeking to enter your own car.
Next time you find yourself locked outside of your car or a friend's car, whip out your smartphone and refer to this article.
Or be extra preppy and save it in your notes.
When push comes to shove, you'll do just fine without it though--our minds are amazing things and we're sure it'll all flood back to your memory if you really do find yourself in this situation.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>There's a point in everyone's life where they realize how convenient it would be to be able to break down a door.
Maybe it's when your flatmate is still asleep and isn't waking up to their blaring alarm clock.
Worse, maybe you don't have your keys and need to get back into your house.
Worse still--some people are stuck inside a burning building and that's the only way to get them out.
While you probably won't need to know how to do this, let's face it, when the day finally comes you'll wish you had taken the few minutes to learn how.
That's enough dilly dally for today, you're here to learn how to break some darn doors, not to listen to our personal thoughts!
Let's get started.
Give the door a well-placed kick or two to the lock area to break it down.
Running at the door and slamming against it with your shoulder or body is not usually as effective as kicking with your foot.
Your foot exerts more force than your shoulder, and you will be able to direct this force toward the area of the locking mechanism more succinctly with your foot.
But is slamming into it with your shoulder effective?
We suppose if it is a glass door of some sort--but only do this as a last resort.
Note: Screwdriver required.
Look on the front of the doorknob for a small hole or keyhole.
Most interior doors have what are called privacy sets.
These locks are usually installed on bedrooms and bathrooms and can be locked from the inside when the door is shut, but have an emergency access hole in the center of the door handle which allows entry to the locking mechanism inside.
Insert the screwdriver or probe into the handle and push the locking mechanism, or turn the mechanism to open the lock.
Viola!
Door opened.
If you are trying to break down an exterior door, you will need more force.
Exterior doors are usually of sturdier construction and are designed with security in mind, for obvious reasons.
In general, you can expect to see two kinds of latches on outside doors: A passage or entry-lock set for latching and a dead-bolt lock for security.
The passage set is used for keeping the door from swinging open and does not lock. The entry-lock set utilizes a dead latch and can be locked before closing the door.
Sounds tough.
So how do you get them open?
Give the door several well-placed kicks at the point where the lock is mounted.
An exterior door usually takes several tries to break down this way, so keep at it and don't get discouraged if it doesn't break down immediately.
Note: Sturdy piece of steel or metal required.
Wrench or pry the lock off the door by inserting the tool between the lock and the door and prying back and forth.
Note: Screwdriver, hammer, or awl required.
Remove the pins from the hinges (if the door opens toward you) and then force the door open from the hinge side.
Get a screwdriver or an awl and a hammer.
Place the awl or screwdriver underneath the hinge, with the pointy end touching the end of the bolt or screw.
Using the hammer, strike the other end of the awl or screwdriver until the hinge comes out.
Interior doors, in general, are of a lighter construction than exterior doors and usually are thinner--1 3/8" thick to 1 5/8" thick--than exterior doors, which generally are 1 3/4" thick.
This may not sound like much of a difference, but in the 'door-breaking-world,' it is.
Older homes will be more likely to have solid wood doors, while newer ones will have the cheaper, hollow core models.
Knowing what type of door you are dealing with will help you determine how to break it down.
You can usually determine the construction and solidity of a door by tapping on it.
This type is generally used for interior doors, since it provides no insulation or security, and requires minimal force.
These doors can often be opened with a screwdriver.
These are usually oak or some other hardwood and require an average amount of force and a crowbar, or other similar tools.
These have a softwood inner frame with a laminate on each side and a chipped or shaved wood core, and require an average amount of force and a screwdriver.
These are usually softwood with a thin metal covering and require an average or above-average level of force and a crowbar.
These doors are of a heavier gauge metal that usually has a reinforcing channel and around the edges and the lock mounting area and are sometimes filled with some type of insulating material.
These will require maximum force and a crowbar.
So there you have it, folks.
We've covered all your possible door-breaking needs.
Now go forth and smash up some doors, and tell 'em ol' Survival Cat sent ya.
Just make sure it's warranted, of course.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
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]]>Let's get the first question out of the way.
Unfortunately, yes, quicksand is real.
In fact, back in February, a hiker in Arizona was rescued from quicksand in Zion National Park.
It isn't something that exists only in the realms of Indiana Jones, The Princess Bride, and Jumanji.
Although we wish it was this way.
Quicksand is present on every continent around the globe--minus Antarctica--and is commonly found near estuaries (the body of water where a river meets the sea).
Let's address the next pressing question.
We'll get to the, 'how to escape,' bit in a minute.
Simply put, quicksand is just ordinary sand mixed with upwelling water, which makes it behave like a liquid. However, quicksand--unlike water--does not easily let go.
If you try to pull a limb out of quicksand, you have to work against the vacuum left behind.
Don't worry, we didn't know what Upwelling meant either. Not to worry, Wikipedia does, "Upwelling is an oceanographic phenomenon that involves wind-driven motion of dense, cooler, and usually nutrient-rich water towards the ocean surface, replacing the warmer, usually nutrient-depleted surface water."
The viscosity of quicksand increases with shearing (or fast, strenuous movement)--move slowly so the viscosity is as low as possible.
Floating on quicksand is relatively easy and is the best way to avoid its clutches. You are more buoyant in quicksand than you are in water. Humans are less dense than freshwater, and saltwater is slightly denser.
Floating is easier in saltwater than freshwater and much easier in quicksand. Spread your arms and legs far apart and try to float on your back.
After a minute or two, equilibrium in the quicksand will be achieved, and you will no longer sink
The pole will keep your hips from sinking, as you (slowly) pull out first one leg and then the other.
Ideally, you should never visit anywhere where sinking into quicksand is a possibility.
But we don't live in an ideal world.
Some of us love to explore, and cannot resist the siren's call of adventure.
If this is you, read up and arrive prepared.
The information presented to you here today is from Joshua Piven's book, The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook - an excellent on-the-go addition to any hiking pack or bug-out-bag.
However, something like the SAS Survival Handbook will be more practical for everyday use while outdoors.
Cheers,
-Alexander @ Survival Cat
If you're gearing up for your next adventure, take a peek at our catalog and see if there is anything you'll need to accompany your travels.
--
Enjoy the article?
Please subscribe to our email list for the latest news, tips, and fun!
]]>